Etch is one of the companies we're been trying to review since we began this little roller coaster ride that is CHR!; they began in 2004 so they've been around for a while... there have been some ups and downs and at one point we thought that they'd actually gone away for good... our worries were unfounded and they're pouring some of their classic shapes for all to enjoy again
If you don't know Etch or have never climbed on their shapes you may actually recognize one of their ads:
"Only mother nature makes better shapes" is their tag line so lets dive in and see what we're playing with this time:
So for a long while Noodles has been injured, so he's been embarking on a bunch of hangboard training to keep up his strength. Whilst he's been playing around we've also been training with him; so what have we been training upon?
Ding ding! Round two for Capital Climbing; whats funny is that when we were filming this review Noodles had set in his normal fashion two routes side by side for filming; when the comp at Shakti Rock Gym came about he set the camera up to film the two routes and then went home to watch the Canadians in the Stanley Cup. Someone knocked the camera and put the other route (The Enix sloper route) out of shot :(
Ah people, thankfully this guys stayed in shot and we were able to get the videos made.
So enough fluff; lets get to talking about holds!!
This review we're looking at the Clasts from Capital Climbing, and the Clast Lip Feature that was featured in our first review of Capital Climbings Barnacles which you can find: here. The holds that are from the same line are the medium Clasts, there are ten of those guys; as we were sent a sample pack of holds we only received five of them.
if you don't then you're in the wrong place reading the wrong post
about the wrong thing; maybe you should go read: http://theoatmeal.com/
or something because this is a hold review site and we're about to get
balls deep in some urethane loving
Exix, run by Brian May aka: The Hollow Back Master is a new company,
less than a year old and it's something that people should probably take
note of. When we say people we really mean Teknik.... boom, first shot
fired across their bow for sure... we think there maybe a few more fired
before we're done writing this one lol
Let's get to
the stuff we're talking about; slopers, simple, pure, dirty dirty
slopers! Want to climb in Font? Train on slopers; want to climb on zee
Grit? Train on slopers (and really small dime ball edges (and learn to
place gear)) So yeah, blah blah another set of slopers is what you're
hearing; well you're hearing wrong and it's time to grab a Q-Tip and
work on the ol' wax deposits because this review is about slopers... but
not just any slopers, we're talking about these:
So Capital Climbing are a new company, they're kind of officially on the market and at some point they should be launching a full on website... right now it's not the case but you can go see them at www.cheapholds.com for now.
We have a bunch of stuff to review from these guys and we're pretty stoked on what we have to play with for a while. What we're looking at this time is a set of holds called the Barnacles and one of the feature holds from the Clast Lips range.
When we received these holds Noodles just sat around and played with them for a few days... why? Just before the holds arrived he knew he had to set some comp routes and new holds means you have to get your mojo on and get it done... first lets look at the holds:
out of Phoenix, Arizona you have a team of three Ryan, Nicholas and Nic
and a company that's been around for about a year producing climbing
holds... no great surprise there as we're a company that reviews holds.
can we say about Thrive Climbing LLC that's not been said? Well we
could wax lyrical about their shapes which when you look at them pretty
well talk for themselves, or we could talk about their mix (which of
course we will) or the colors or the fact that it's a small home grown
company that's doing a great job... but we won't, we'll let Thrive
Ryan Wurm; Owner: We started making climbing
holds for fun in my garage, and then we realized that we really enjoyed
doing it. We thought we had something to contribute to the climbing
industry, so we decided to make hold on a larger scale and to see where
it will go. After one year of making holds we are expanding our company
and product lines.
We are a small climbing hold manufacturer Based In Phoenix, AZ running
out of a tiny little shop. We have been making climbing holds for only
one year now. Our product line is very simplistic, with the occasional
artistic design. We have big plans for Thrive Climbing as we continue to
grow, and we love what we do.
that!! Add the fact that they're getting shapes from Tony Reynaldo who
shapes and has shaped for more company's that you can actually count on
both hands... don't believe us, check this out, that's just a sample of
that's just a sample of his work and now he's added Thrive to his ever
expanding resume and props to Thrive for getting him on-board, it only
means that Thrive is going to be a very interesting company to watch in
So we have two sets currently the
Snaggletooth slopers which are a pair of slopers that are opposites,
sloped on one side that's slightly incut and then the outside that is
just sloped out. When we say opposites we mean there is a left hand and
right hand version of these holds (why don't more people do this?)
the Moonpie Crimps, a set of eight holds that we're using the term 360
degree holds for because (and yes all holds are usable most of the time
in 360 degrees) but these give you a little more...
So it's been a while eh folks? Between Noodles being just flat out injured (he had ankle surgery on Oct 7th) and everyone just being busy as all hell. This series of reviews have been a long time coming!
What do they say? Without the head the body doesn't function; Noodles is the head and they body stopped for a while... but now he's back, climbing and getting stronger and so we're back
DID YOU HEAR THAT PEOPLE? WE'RE BACK!!!
What do we have planned? Atomik... bit ol slopers
Lets look at what we're kicking off with:
These guys are the XL Simple Slopers and the guys below are the large version:
So since we've been away for a while! Noodles has been injured and
without the head the body cannot function; we're back now and for our
first review we're looking at what we've been doing whilst he heals a
What could we have planned? Well it's a
little impromptu that's for sure because we were planning on doing a
hold review... but as Gui and Noodles brought themselves some new toys
this week we're going head to head on two things; impactors, yes
We're looking at two, the new Dewalt 20v and the Makita 12v:
Phew, if you didn't read my last post about my ankle you should go and read it: here. It's a heart warming tale of woe with a pinch of pity from myself thrown in for good measure :)
you've read that last post read this one... it's part review and update
on what's going on with my ankle and one of the reasons reviews are
taking so long to get posted.
The last time I wrote
about my ankle I was on the brink of getting a MRI. So in early Feb I
wandered down to the hospital for something that I thought would be an
intrusive procedure ended up being a very quick 20 minute procedure
where the scan went well. Results were quick coming and I headed on back
to see the doctor again. She basically said that it was swollen and she
couldn't see anything :) (Yey technology and huge magnets) So that was
useful I guess... and she request I go get a CT scan. Basically another
waiting procedure for a few months.... so what's been happening since
The fine people at Active Ankle sent me a couple of braces to try. They sent two the T2 and the EZ Lacer;
one of them is a solid type of brace and the other one is a sock that
laces up... and lets get to the nitty gritty on this. At this point I
was still climbing a little and trying to keep up my training; between
that and going to physio a few times a week I was on a good track;
managing my injury pretty well and feeling OK. Because of the injury I
was being very careful with what I climbed, I didn't drop to the mats at
all. That was until these braces turned up...
Here's a question... what do John
Long, Royal Robbins, Jim Bridwell, Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, Dave
Graham, Josh Wharton and Alex Johnson all have in common, other than
being super famous climbers? Read on and all will (hopefully be
while back Noodles was schmoozing around the interwebs looking for some
climbing news and he stumbled upon a link to Climb Talk Radio on
youtube.com. What he found was an interview with Ian Powell, you know
Ian Powell; the guy who was in Rock & Ice a while back, you know
the guy who started E-Grips and has just started a new company called
was super interesting was his interview took place with Clark Shelk,
you know the guy who owns Pusher and Revolution; you know the guy who
pretty much invented the modern crash pad as you know it!!
Ian and Clark on the radio, they're both known to be a little wild and
will drop an f-bomb or two sitting infront of a camera being
interviewed... how awesome was it? Pretty damn, here's a weee taster :)
we contacted Climb Talk to interview them (an interesting turn of
tables for them we're sure) and Dave McAllister was happy enough to drop
us a reply to what we wanted to know... enjoy!!
So X-Cult, here we go again... let's go out on a limb here and say we were blown away by their volumes! That's not really a limb that's actually a fact, the other holds that arrived at the same time well... that's probably another matter; a matter that we'll talk about in a few more reviews.
It seems that we're going from the largest sizes down with X-Cult reviews, this time we're looking at some competition slopers that range from 3XL to 2XXL. Five holds, all in neon pink that might be something you're looking for... lets take a look and see:
Kaleb Thomas; Head Routesetter at Crag X
recently collaborated with Noodles and B.A Gear on a setters bag that
we've been working on.... they recently hosted a competition and as he's
part of the CHR family he wrote a review on some of the Red Point Holds
that he received for that comp. It's a little different format than
you're used to but he goes through a bunch of holds in quick succession,
So Recently at Crag X (The gym in which I
set) we held a big bouldering competition, and one of our sponsors for the comp
was Red Point Climbing Holds out of Kelowna. We used this opportunity to pick
up a few holds and see what these guys are all about. We bought several sets of
holds, which I will individually touch on, but first, lets cover all the
“non-hold related stuff”
with Noodles having a douched ankle and with a slight depression that's
been and gone from not climbing; we're back on the go and we're back
with a doozy of a review. Not with just a single review but a double
header that will be updated as we go, this is a mix of Gui and Noodles,
Noodles is being the "normal" climber and Gui being the "Strong"
climber in this review, confused... you should be... basically Gui's
comments are like a full on review of the 2000 boards, the main body of
the text is about both and Noodles comments are about the 1000!
So lets begin and go from there ok?
was a thought running around the CHR camp for many years that the Moon
board was the hardest thing on the planet, and it was and in some cases
still is but there are new boards hitting the market all of the time
that could take the crown. Both are from the same company that's based
in the UK; and that company is called Beastmaker; yes Beastmaker. The
Maker Of Beasts, it seems like a big claim just from the name doesn't
it? Just a little... :)
If you're looking to "train" then there's the 1000, if you want to "TRAIN" then there's the 2000... do you know what we mean? NO!! HA, read on... both of these boards are going to get you strong and they're going to test you in ways you didn't know existed; you will be frustrated, you will cry a little but you will get stronger that's for sure... oops it seems we started the review before the review really started.... let's start again:
As we amble along this path that hopefully
is an informative and amusing review lets look at what we're talking
Right, want to win some stuff?? All you have to do is name the routes that are in the below images!! What you'll win is either a copy of this:
A copy of the Rock Town guide book, of which there are 7 to win, or you could win this:
A CHR baseball hat months before they go on sale, there are 7 of these as well :)
So 14 prizes for 14 winners.... just name the routes, it's that easy!!
Here are the routes:
You need to email in your answers (top left of the page is a link to our email) with your answers, have the subject line read "I WANT A GUIDE BOOK OR A HAT" or you'll be disqualified, this comp is open to Canada and the US only (sorry (or unless enough people bitch and we extend it to the rest of the World)) and in the case of a tie then you need to answer this question "What the name of the CHR cat?"
NOTE: This is about Noodles and his ankle and there are some horrible images of sprained ankles, if you don't like the sight of this stuff or self pity turn a way now!
So I guess this story starts with me and what happened prior to my
ankle getting blown out... I have a trainer and he's part of the CHR
family and I'd spent about 4 months training my ass off for this years
Tour De Bloc. That's me on the left there are the first comp of the year
at Joe Rockheads in Toronto cranking down to a 5th place finish in my
field. I'd had a good comp and training was fitting into my daily life
and around the comps so I was happy.
what happened was something of a freak accident :( During a rest period
I was at the gym and I was showing someone how I did a move and I
fluffed it, my hand slipped and I fell... about 4ft, yup 4 bloody feet. I
landed a little lopsided (the mats are angled) and as soon as I hit I
knew my ankle was done. Now, I've never had an ankle problem but when
you do something like this you just know. I crawled off of the
mat with Bobby laughing at me as he thought I was just messing around.
This is the image about 10 minutes after I did it... looks a little
broken; a few beers later I went to hospital.
logic, I iced it when I got home and I'm pretty damn good with pain but
even after a while it started to get to me. If the beer isn't going to
help then I'll go see a professional :)