Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Back to work...

Here's the new wall, well some videos of the new wall. I'll warn you now there is some language that I've not managed to bleep out yet, nothing that will turn your hair blue, but language non-the-less!

The first video is about 7 mins long. It's a sequence that we're having trouble getting through. Slap slope to Crater pinch to Slap slopes across the wall (Climb-It feet). Now I said it in the review the Slap pinches can be dialed in to make a route hard or harder, I opted for the harderthannormal setting. It's a work in progress, the rest of the route just gets harder! It's around the V2+ mark in this part.. I'll post more as we make progress! I'd like to point out that the hold we're falling off of has NOTHING on it, its a huge nasty sloper, the feet are tiny and if you move to fast you just fall off... :)

Now this one's a gem I set the other night with Contacts "Rex" holds. I was wondering how they'd go on a roof! Well, they're HARD! There have been some changes to the route since the start, I've taken off two of the holds and added larger holds to make it doable, but this far the Rex's are fun to climb on, if a little finger rippy. The overhung part of the route is some Nicros holds that came with the Jug-Or-Not I grabbed a while back and the flat back wall are some E-Grips that are in test right now. Enjoy the pain... I did :P

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