Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Review > Asana > Waffle & Logo

asana
Firstly we'll start with everyones favorite treat... waffles (They're kind of hard to find in Canada eh?) in the blue corner we have the Waffle, straight out of...the Waffle house, a fully paid up member of the:we have from Boise Idaho we have the Waffle!!!!
Now Asana haven't been in the hold game for all that long, but they've got game. This is the second Waffle that we've had from them because Canada Post like to play full contact hockey with parcels. Think I'm joking? Nope, fraid not. The postal service did a fairly good job of nailing the parcel, so much so that even with packing this hold had a huge crack in it when we got it. Normally i'd not worry about a crack, i'll run some glue down the fissure and climb on it anyways, this time I noticed that the crack was bad enough that I could snap the hold, with my hands....No seriously...Thanks Canada Post! Bunch of monkeys.... I talked to the guys at Asana about this and they had another hold to me in a matter of days (even thou it wasn't their fault)... this time it was unscathed! Asana have great customer service, they come back to you real fast and they'll make sure you're happy with what you've got. This in a world full of people ready to sue you for anything is great, I'm always happy to sing the praises of any company that go's out of their way to make you're pleased.

And then the session began...The Waffle can be put up anyway you want... ANYWAY! Upside down, it's brutal the Waffle texture is wicked to try to hang onto, I spent a good hour just sessioning one move from one hold to this!!!Stick it vertically, and you've got some wicked matches. Which ever way you put the hold its super fun to hold onto, some ways are going to be better than others, we span the hold all over the place....Hang it, chuck it into the center of a route, spin it... hell do whatever you want with it, get enough of them you could use them as campus rails. The hold has become a staple of the wall, normally it stays on the overhang, but if you've got some lower grade climbers round bolt it onto the vertical wall and they'll have a blast! It's got a huge bag of tricks, some people will complain that it doesn't have a purpose, it's got too many ways of holding it but I see this as a mute point, the beauty of the hold is you can do anything with it :)

Next to the Waffle, from the Red corner... we set up the Asana logo hold... ...it's a tricky one, lots of potential for matching, lots and lots of matches and some really nice edges, again this depends upon which way you spin the hold. There was a small problem with the hold...
...the sanding was a little off, so we're getting the sander out this weekend and we'll sort this little problem out. Either way it went onto the wall, we applied a rule of no grabbing round the edge :P
On the overhang its pretty hard, thankfully you can get two hands on it most of the time so you've got a fair ammount of leeway for what you want to do with it!
Grab a corner, pinch the middle, hell if you're feeling strong undercut it, heel hook it and just go wild... Again it's got so many use's you can just spin it whichever way you want and have a good session!It's again one of those holds that does everything, its harder than the Waffle, but what it does do it excels at, again it's not going to be on roofs but on steep terrain or on the vertical it's great.

RATING
NOODLES SAYS
Ok, Canada Post playing chuck the parcel and some sanding that I called them about and has been sorted, Asana have been nothing but helpful with whatever questions I had, gripes aswell! Their customer service surprised me by being both quick and effective whenever anything arose, this is important when buying holds!! I like both the holds because I can just spin them around and tweak a move out to make it harder or easier with just the spin of a wrench. Both holds have enough variety that you can use them however you really feel.

The Waffle has a texture that I've not seen before and it is very Waffle-like, it's super fun to haul on even when you're on the slopey side, I love using it as a side pull and matching it.

The Asana logo quite simply for me is a pinch-fest, I was grabbing the hold all over the place, falling sometimes, grinning the rest of the time.

Overall for a company that's not been making holds I'm very impressed, I know that there are going to be great things coming from this company! We may have to wait a while, but it's sure as hell going to be worth the wait....

CHRIS SAYS
A hold that's been named after a breakfast item
a) makes me feel hungry
and
b) makes me want to see what the hell Noodles is talking about when he calls me about new holds
Seeing the hold the first time I looked at the texture and wondered how brutal it was going to be on the fingers... answer, it's actually nicer than some holds out there. It catches a little bit, but nothing that a climbers hands can't deal with.... I like the hold, I was rotating it a lot and it's easy some ways and super hard on others! I'm looking forward to getting the POW hold soon, I think its going to be a bunch of fun

The Logo hold if you like pinching and thin ledges is a good all rounder, it's almost suited to being a system hold, seriously a bunch of these would cover ledges and pinches for a wall. On sighting this hold will be a beatch, and even when you know where to grab it, I don't think that that's a bad thing being surprised by a hold you know is always going to be interesting :P Both holds clean up really well, we know we chucked chalk all over them!

PROS
  • Both holds have variety written all over them, spin them about as you wish
  • The Waffle has a unique texture that you'll not see anywhere else
  • Two tone always looks wicked on a wall
CONS
  • Neither hold is suited to roofs, but everywhere else they're great
  • Sanding was so-so on the Logo hold, but that's been fixed back at Asana HQ
  • You can't really use either hold to force a move (But the Logo is going to be tough to onsight at a comp)
PRICE
The Waffle is $30 and well worth a look
The Asana logo is $52???

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Louie.....help those guys out!

ntmb said...

We've got more stuff in the works. They're new and I think that there's alot to come from them...

Wait and see :)