Saturday, January 10, 2009

Review > Atomik > Fonts 21 pack & Steep Wall Fonts

atomik
Kenny over at Atomik asked us after our last series of reviews what we'd like to see from them, as we loved their Font shapes so much, especially the XXL Font Sloper we suggested they make some more Font shapes and make some packs with them... and what did they go and do?? They only went and shaped a bunch of new Font holds.... HELL YEAH! Not only that the holds we had last time where poured from G1 (Generation 1) molds so the texture was pretty harsh... this time (and for their entire range from now on!!) these holds came from the G2 molds... DOUBLE HELL YEAH!!... so we'll see how the texture go's for the review.. let's introduce the holds we've been playing with:

21 hold Font pack, medium and smalls
Steep wall Fonts, 5 pack


These holds arrived and went straight onto the wall, there was no messing about! I wanted to see what the texture felt like on these shapes, they'd felt pretty good when they were on my desk at work so I was keen to get onto them as soon as possible... and know what? Perfect for the size of the holds, the smalls and mediums have just enough texture that you feel like you're going to be fine, and then Steeps feel the same, it's about how you grab these holds!

As you'll see in the video, we're playing on the smalls are fair amount on the overhung section of the wall, they're small and slopey in most cases so it's pretty hard going most of the time. The stand out holds are the steeps as they can go most places, the red one we have on our box got a lot of attention (and still is) just because it's so nice to hold onto, it's not in the nicest position, but where it is and how you get onto it is a very interesting move :)






These holds are going to be very good for beginners as the areas that you're going to want to grab isn't at first obvious, so they'll teach people about body movement if you set with that in mind. Where these holds will shine is going to be technical slab climbs where balance is going to be key, they're fun on traverses but the going does get tough the more the wall gets overhung, the smalls are super hard on our 30, there's no way they'll go anywhere near the 45. The reason the 45 is in there is because of the large steeps that we have as well, once these are on a steep wall you're going to have to be very delicate to grab the right spot and hang on... so therefore in our book a bunch of fun



SEB
I don't climb anywhere near as much as Chris and Noodles, and I hate small holds... but these seem to be an exception for me (maybe I was just strong that day) as I managed to get most of the way around the route without feeling like my fingers were going to explode. Small holds, as I'm a big guy are my nemesis, I avoid them, but these were very nice to climb on... I just wish my footwork was better so I could finish the route

  • Texture problems have been ironed out, a tip of the hat for that
  • Will be great on traverses and slab routes
CONS
  • (Minor) Depending upon your color selection (If you're like us you like your holds bright) shoe rubber does show up quite a lot on the yellow holds
  • Not all of the holds are suited to steep walls, so where these holds are being placed is critical
PRICE

The 51 pack is $219.99 includes bolts, t-nuts and shipping to lower 48 US states.
The 21 pack is $49.99 includes bolts, t-nuts and shipping to lower 48 US states.

There is a sale on right now... the 51 pack is $199.99 about $4 a hold i.e: CHEAP!


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