Friday, January 16, 2009

Review > Nicros > Skin Saver Crimps

Nicros Handholds

When we mentioned to Greg at Nicros that we were building a 45 degree wall he mentioned that he had something that we'd like! They have a set of crimps that as they say on their site:
"Wanna climb on the 60 without feeling like you're climbing on the 60? Skin Saver Crimps are available in all shapes and sizes. Every hold is strategically Dif-Texed, revealing just enough texture to help preserve your pads." That piqued our interest, and once they arrived they were one of the first sets of holds to be bolted up and hauled on...
What's interesting about these holds is the nature of the dif-texture on the holds, some are left or right hand bias and when you grab them your fingers fall into the optimal spot with the textured area! We set some routes all over the wall, from the 15 to 45 degrees to the ceiling and what you're going to notice is that these holds are exactly as the Nicros site describes, nice big dual textured crimps, as usual we had the video camera on hand to record some of the routes (We're using a new video package, so the quality is better (you can watch in high quality) but the editing is a little bit below our normal standard!))

The holds preferred realm is going to be steep walls, so our holds now reside on the new 45 degree; all of the holds are nice and positive without turning themselves into jugs, the steeper you go the harder they get, but they never get to the point where you say "they're not going on to that", they always remain and feel very doable. We think that the holds are a nice in between set for people that have been climbing for a while that want to haul on steep walls, for beginners given the right hand / left hand bias these will teach (if set right) route finding and problem solving, for the strong climbers out there; there is enough hold/grip to slow you down should you misread the problem or route. There is a lot of fun to be had, the amount is up to whomever sets the route


We had these on the wall before the new 45 went up, all over the place; we even put them on our Jug-or-Not that we have on the roof... and on the roof by themselves. For holds that are designed for steep to super steep terrain these get the job done and get it done very very well, they don't rip your skin to shreds when you're hauling away, there is one minor gripe with these holds is that we'd have preferred the radii of the lips on the holds to be a little larger, they're not sharp like most crimps these are rounded, but when you dyno to some of them they do bite a little!!! But these are crimps (pretty big one's at that) so it's nothing major

When you put them on a roof they do feel marginal... they weren't designed for roofs so don't expect an easy time if you set with them there. That being said, if you're feeling strong and your padding is good then they are more than climbable when your back is pointing at the floor





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