Thursday, February 5, 2009

Review > Entre Prise > Imperfect Cobbles

Entre Prises is a company founded in France and made their debut making the first resin holds on the commercially marketed holds waaaay back in 1983. They quickly moved onto buiding modular walls and have since been building, inovating and being on the forefront of climbing wall projects.

What best describes the Imperfect Cobbles are doorknobs with a huge chip on their shoulder, so huge that they leave holes in your fingers. The chips on the holds give each hold a different feel with some being slopey while others have more of an edge on them.

So we were under the impression that the chipped side side (when we say chipped we mean the flatter in built imperfect side) would be the best way of grabbing onto the holds. So to the wall to test our theory! Our first problem was set on the 30 degree wall with the chips side up. Although Seb and Eve needed a few attempts to get around the climb, we found that we were able to get the send with less effort than expectected. In order to test our theory and complete this experiment we kept the route as is and we flipped all the holds 180 degrees and the conclusion is they're better the wrong way up. There are two reasons for this: 1: The real rock texture is rough and it hurts, 2: the rest of the hold make awesome pinches. With the chipped side facing up like we originally set it forces you to use that part of the hold for your grip and doesn't leave much room for error. Some of the holds have a negative angle and it makes it tricky to bear your weight on them without falling off. When we put them up the other way it was much easier to hang on and figure out what foot holds to use.

The chipped side on the holds are made with a different texture then the rest of the hold and are quite sharp. Noodles pointed out that his fingers burned after the session but despite a little redness my fingers didn't burn, the holds have a more airated look and feel than most resin holds we've come across. The next day was a different story, in the morning my fingers were feeling the burn from the holds, the texture of the chips have little ridges in on them like you would find on real rock and like real rock if you're repeatetly falling of holds your fingers will feel the pain.

Now our suggested uses and what the Entreprise website say are a little different on the angles... we'd have a go on these (and we did) upto and
including 45 degrees... the symbol on the left is what they suggest, if you hover your cursor over the symbol you can read this "Most difficult on overhang wall. Fine-tuned for expert routes and boulder problems. Recommended for training, cruxes and comp routes"... we agree with the boulder problems, training... well they're a little rough (Entre Prise went for a real rock feel) but your skin won't get completely beat up (The digits will hurt thou) and of course cruxes and comp routes; what we don't like is the symbol they use (Someone had to point out a mistake when we published the review, thanks!) when the website says 135 degrees they mean 45 degrees (135 + 45 = 180), they're taking their measurement from the opposite side rather than how we take it from the vertical, we were wondering what kind of monsters they have climbing on the holds... 105 to 135 overhung... whoop!! That's some serious strength right there!!!
tate the holds depends on what you get, becuase of the imbuilt imperfect sides you can have a flat edge, or turn the hold 180 you'll have a slope / pinch to grab onto!!

Entre Prise's "Imperfect Cobbles" might not be perfect but they're certainly not bad in my opinion. The texture is amazing, it sticks like velcro and yet it's not to rough on the hands. They seem to be meant to be set in a given direction though, they all have one smooth round side and one side that seems to have been cut off with a rusty knive...that's the side that's gold and when they're set with the slopey side up, gravity just ain't your friend no more, these holds certainly remind you what your finger strength is like these days.

In other words, the same route can vary in difficulty just by turning the holds around which is a nice asset! Color? Well red is red now ain't it! Also, I didn't play on the 45 with these and I'm thankfull. Personally, I'd put them on a route between crux's. The Cobbles can be nice if you can put your whole weight on them, they could be used as a nice break although they can be a pain in the....wrist! ;)


Lindsey said...

Looking at the Entre Prises site I think when they say 135, it’s the same as 45, just talking about the other “side” of the angle (135 + 45 = 180). They’re talking about the angle from the back side of the wall to the floor behind the wall (135) & 45 refers to the angle from the front side of the wall to the floor on the front side of the wall (side you climb on).

ntmb said...

Lindsay... good point! Don't know how we missed that point :( I'll make some edits

Thanks for the eagle eyes!!!