Saturday, July 4, 2009

Review > Element Climbing > Ammonia + Chloroform

It's a two for one, well a set of holds and a hold that should be in that set. These holds look like huge paint splats and on the 45 degree wall are amazing!
We've got a two for one special for you today. Element Climbing sent us a bunch of holds and we'll be reviewing the Chloroform and Amonia set. The Chloroform is your standard roof jug, big deep two hand pocket but the rest of the hold can be used for other grips mostly pinches and, if set at the right angle, slopey. The Amonia set consists of three incut pinches. We're reviewing these holds as one because we've been setting with both sets together all this time and we find that they compliment each other. The Chloroform is a single hold found on the jugs section of their website, the Amonias are a featured set and you can link to the product page right off Elements home page.



So you can see why we've been setting with these two sets as one, they really look alike, so much so that they could be from the same line. The Chloroform is shaped for bolting onto a roof and usually we jump at the idea of setting in the roof but in this case we kept it on the 45 degree wall. The shape of the jug itself is quit generic, the pocket is round, finger friendly and you could hang off it for hours but flip the hold sideways or upside down things start to get interesting, if it was by design or not, setting the hold up at different angles allowed us to use the fins as pinches. Now not only do we have a two for one review, we also have a two for one hold :)

The Ammonia set are three pinches and their shape closely resembles that of the Chloroform, minus the big pocket of course. There categorized as X large pinches but they're not all that big and won't take up as much space on your home woody. We think that the X large grading is due to the size of the pinch itself which in some places can be quit wide. The holds are incut and although they may be categorized as X large they are still on the smaller side and you can only get two or maybe three fingers around the hold. SO we knew from the start that these holds were going to be tricky so we set them up on the 45:)

Element Climbing sent us the Ammonia's and Chloroform with two other sets, the Betas and Metamorphosis's, and our first problem we set was with all four. The problem started on the Chloroform and continued onto the Ammonia's and they ended up spitting us off a few times before we found the right foot holds to use and the correct sequence for the hand movements. We set them up so we could use the incut part of the hold, being on the 45 we figured we'd be giving ourselves a break, but it was still necessary to use the other pinching options on the hold. This didn't make the problem any easier, it just made it easier to match the hold, and it still required a lot of strength to keep on the pinch.

Our second problem was once again on the 45 with a long move to the finish on to the Chloroform. It was a short problem. only three moves, but once again the Ammonia's spat us off. The shape of the hold has many pinch options and makes even the short sequences fun to work, but hard to hold

We've had these holds around for quite some time and they seem to always find their way onto the 45 so we handed them off to Seb to set something different. And he didn't disappoint. He started his problem on a vertical wall, under the box, and ending on the Chloroform. The sequence was much easier than the 45, the pinches are still a little tricky to maneuver, but what Seb did with the Chloroform was to set it on its side. With the hold set up this way we needed to use the hold as a slope...yes a slope. The Chloroform has a big pocket on one side, but the rest of the hold is slopey and when Seb set it up as a side pull, we were able to grab the top of the hold instead of the pocket.

Nice and centered, use cap head bolts
Slightly smooth but grippy
Versatility: More than you think on first glance... pinchy fun!
Screw Holes: The Chloroform could do with a screw hole, the rest are fine

Element Climbing have only been around a short time and they've done their research. The holds are well built, the bolts are centered and the holds don't spin, they've even hollowed out the back of the Chloroform to loose weight. The texture is smooth and we could work our sequence, unbolt the holds, move them around and work another sequence without feeling any pain. I was a little disappointed with the colour. On the website, the holds are molded in a cool marble green but ours came in a solid tone.

The holds have been on and off the wall and they've gathered a lot of chalk and the texture hasn't changed very much. Usually the texture of a hold will mellow out bit with Elements holds had a nice smooth texture all the way through even when it's been caked in chalk.

Build wise the backs are flat, the bolt holds nice and square with an inset washer... we've not had any of the holds spin on us yet, but it's a matter of time before the Chloroform gets some jewelery in the shape of a set screw
Urethane! It's a pretty strong mix we've not cracked a hold yet

I really like these holds, they nice and round with no sharp edges in sight, the texture is smooth and the shapes are unique. They gave us a challenge and everyone had fun with the holds. We had to work most of the time to get any progress, but in the end everybody had tried the problems repeatedly.

  • Good for all level climbers (Depends on the angle of wall)
  • Nice texture
  • Varied pinches, just spin the holds
  • They could have a bigger line, maybe some small pinches
  • Order the colour you want, don't get caught with a colour you don't like
Ammonia, are three XL pinches for $44.95
The Chloroform is a single XXXL roof jug for $49.95

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