Saturday, July 18, 2009

Review > So Ill > Gingivitis

Big old teeth shaped holds for your wall, So Ill pulls another wacky idea out of the bag!
Soill Holds
Teeth, wolverines, gum line....we had a lot a names for this set of holds from So Ill before we got around to checking the site to find out that they're called the Gingivitis. A set of five jugs, from straight teeth to a crooked Quasimodo smile, the Gingivitis are all nice and big with options to boot. Chance are if you read a climbing magazine you've probably seen the below image:
So teethy... teeth. This what they look like:
So we've had this debate over at CHR headquaters over the pros and cons of novelty shapes. What we've come to agree on is if the hold is functional, who care what it looks like. You've probably seen So Ill's holds at your local gym, and there is always a theme to their shapes no matter how subtle. The Gingivitis are not a subtle shape.

Being big two had jugs, it was easy for us to set routes for a wide range of climbers. The Gingivitis can also be used as pinches, using the gum line as a thumb catch or an individual tooth for a narrow pinch and are easily matched. Now big jugs like these are pretty easy to climb on, and the Gingivitis as jugs are no different. There are no sharp edges and your hand rests comfortably on the hold, so to spice up our lives we set our first problem with the holds set as pinches. The problem started on the vertical wall and progressed onto the 45. Everyone was having a good time with the route until it came to getting onto the 45. The hold on the 45 required a lot of power and it kept spitting us off. So we took our wrenches and turned it 10 degrees wit the same result. So we spun it another 10, then another 10 when finally someone was able to get two hands onto the hold. We're not saying that the holds are impossible to hold as pinches on a 45, they just need you to keep working the move until it becomes second nature, and if we had more time for reviews we would be doing just that.

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Everywhere, and anything. From vertical to roof, from training to competition routes the Gingivitis are diverse enough to find themselves in a multitude of settings. The jug on the holds are at different angles, some have nice easy buckets to hold on where others are almost flat and can barely be classified as jugs. All in all they're pretty straight forward holds and won't leave you guessing, just get a grip and go. Even when we had problems climbing on them on the 45, a stronger climber would have the strength to clamp down and move through the sequence. So jugs or side pulls? They work well as both, underclings are also a hoot on these, what's not so good is a good ol fashioned all points off dyno to some of these holds, if you hit the hold in the wrong place you could find yourself on a gap between the teeth on clinging to one of the canines (your pointy vampire teeth) and hurting yourself, so a well placed hand is your best bet if you're going to jump about on them

OVERALL BUILD
Bright pink
Size: Large
Versatility: Jug or pinch, you decide before bolting the hold onto the wall
Screw Holes: Yes, with the exception of one

Four screw holes for five holds. Huh? Now these holds will spin, hence the screw hole, and every one has spun and when the one with out the screw placement spun we realized that it didn't have a screw hole, the rest did and we'd put screws in them. We're not sure why there isn't a placement on the hold as it's pretty well the same size as the ones that do have the holds.

Ours holds came in pink, bright, bright , pink. Add the shapes style and that makes for an added wow factor on our wall. The holds are sanded flat and are well built, we see tons of So Ill holds at the gym and they are always on the wall, there's been no problems with any of the holds either at CHR HQ or the gym that we're aware of.

On the texture front they are a little rough, they have an almost crystalline feel to them so expect them to be very very grippy. It's the kind of texture that gyms will like as no matter how much chalk gets onto the shapes they will always be OK to hold onto. Cleaning on the other hand takes a little more elbow work as they will take rubber and chalk into all of their little crevices, go grab a brush and get a scrubbing.

EVE
The Gingivitis from So Ill are... well... Teeth!!! Honestly, if I was the designer, I would have steered clear of the canines, but all in all these novelty holds are actually quite a challenge and not that painful except in very specific angles and situations. After climbing on them, we quickly found out the molars are surprisingly hard to hold on to, but you should be the judge! The texture of the hold, IMHO is standard and fairly nice, the color is... hmmm ... noticeable? It's as bright as the skirt I made my parents may parents buy me in '88! But them again, 'flash' seems to be a So Ill trademark. I'd assume the Gingivitis to be more appealing to children then experienced climbers, but a good setter can still have A LOT of fun with those... I hope they don't get underestimated, cause they're both fun in looks and climbability
  • Strong as hell
  • Good jugs or side pulls
CONS
  • Hard to clean you might want to see your dentist :)
  • Texture is quie aggresive
PRICE
$69 gets you five holds



2 comments:

Anonymous said...

LOVE the teeth! Great shape.
dale@contactclimbing.com

dental clinic in singapore said...

such clever idea, to get the rocks shape like jaws, and teeth.