Friday, August 14, 2009

Review > Atomik > Screw On Pockets 10 Pack

Atomik 10 Pack Screw Ons, did you think that a screw on this small would be hangable on a roof? Well these are those screw ons, bigger than you expect, from small two finger pockets to slightly larger three finger pockets these will make you work for the send, that's for sure!

Atomik Climbing has sent us a lot of holds. The first time we experienced their holds they came in by the ton, it was the largest box that we had received. Our relationship with Atomik only grew from there and after some advice from yours truly, they made modifications to their shapes and changes in their mix. So we were excited when we got news that they'd be sending us some more holds.

Atomik has made it really easy to let the buyer know what they're getting. The set consists of a real rock textured finger pockets that can all be used as pinches as well. Although they're screw on holds, they're surprisingly big. There's room for two fingers on most holds and you can even getting the pinky in some of the others. Its a great set because you've got a bunch of holds with a lot of variety at a good price. They have an outdoor rock feel to them and they've been designed with some good thumb catches so all the holds can be used as either pockets or pinches. The holds are very comfortable, which again is a surprise and the pockets don't dig into your hands.

So the only question is where to set the holds. The suggestion to put them on the roof came up and Noodles had a look in his eyes that clearly read "no" so he brought it upon himself to set the first problem. His problem started on the 45 and traversed across the wall. The holds are a little deceptive in that they are screw ons and some of the moves looked like they were going to be a challenge to execute. But deception is part of the game and the we ended up getting through the sequence without breaking too much of a sweat. The holds are big and we could get our chunky fingers well into the hold. We never felt uneasy on any of them and the only problems we had was when we lacked on footwork.

Its been a while since we've set a problem for a review on the roof, but we felt confident that these holds had a place on steep terrain (Noodles: I didn't!). Ok, maybe confident isn't the right word but we figured with some strategic setting we could manage to get through the roof. These holds are so big (for screw ons) that Noodles actually hung from the holds when his feet broke off and was able to get his feet back up onto the wall. So after that send I went played a game with the problem. I call the game Bizarre World, where you take the problem you just sent, and do it in reverse. So what happened? You'll have to watch the video to find out (the one above)

Screw on holds tend to be on the small crimpy side of the hold spectrum. You''ll come across them at the gym and they'll probably be set in a crux sequence or as a intermediate move to get to the next hold but the Pocket Screw-ons are large enough to be put on vertical and steep terrain a like. We'll admit that it is a strain on your fingers when climbing on the 45 but the shape of the hold make it some of the most comfortable finger pockets we've ever experienced. The shapes of the holds make it so they can be used as both finger jugs and pinches, so the steeper terrain is easier to get around with the use of your thumb to get a better grip. What about the roof you might ask? Climbing roofs is usually saved for the more experienced climber and in this context these holds will work well on the roof. Its no easy ride by any means but in the end a well set problem is send able. A strong climber will breeze through a sequence while a more novice climber will need to get through the head games to get through the sequence.

These holds actually when we sat down and talked about them are just about big enough for bolts, can we get a bolt on version of these holds, they're easier to move :)

Versatility: Pockets with some nice pinches
Screw Holes: 4 per hold
What can we say that hasn't been said before. Nice holds, flat backs, good texture and great shapes, everything we look for in a good hold and at a good price. Granted, screw ons can be a bit of a pain because you need to put in all the four screws needed to place the hold on the wall but other than that we have no complaints.

  • All terrain screw ons, any angle is fine
  • Lots of variation for pockets, there are pinch options galore
  • 10 holds can make some good boulder problems

  • Despite being deep and comfortable, two finger hauling isn't for everyone, unless the angle is shallow
  • Are big enough to be bolt ons... where are these? Screw ons are a pain to move
  • Not the easiest to set with, but not the hardest. You have to think about the moves a lot
Ten holds will cost you $34.99

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