Friday, October 9, 2009

Review > Project Holds > Shellshocked 2XL's

projectholds

Way back in November of 2008 we ran a review on some of the Shellshocked range from Project Holds; you can find it here... the one size of holds we didn't review was the 2XL's, we did everything else up to and including the Wedge but we had a hole in our line up between the XL's and the 3XL's... now we can fill the gap (other than the really big shapes in the lineup) and you can see what this size of hold is like. Without further ado, meet the Shellshocked 2XL holds:


Now if you click the link and read the last review you'll see that there were a bunch of problems with the holds; the Wedge got stuck on the wall and we had to do some fairly brutal drilling around the t nut to get it off of the wall and we noted that the color despite the holds being poured at the same time was a little inconsistent when it got to the edges of the shapes. This time we had no problems, the holds are a light pink and the color is nice and flat across the holds and as these holds aren't anywhere near as large as the Wedge we've had no problems with t-nuts and lock ups! Where we did have a problem was one entirely of our own doing :D

Setting late at night when you've had a few too many beers for your birthday might seem like a fairly bad idea, and when we went back and looked at what had been set and we started to session the problem that we started to think that we could have set something that was a little out of our range and possibly a little crazy because some of the moves were really hard. Rather than just re-set the route we decided to try it a few times to see if it'd go. Chris mentioned that we'd set something similar a few years ago with this holds that were a little more positive to hang and he believed that it would go.

So round comes Noodles actual birthday on the Sunday where we had a full schedule of work on the site to be completed, we weren't even going to climb but as we needed to film for an upcoming review we grabbed our gear and off we went. The other route didn't even get a look in, we figured out what we had to do to complete the route, it was now a race to see who would actually be the first to stick the move (the one from under the box to the 30 degree wall) and then to figure out the final move which was a match on the most positive hold of the set.





Shallow walls, arete and the tops of bouldering walls is where we'd suggest putting these holds (see Noodles comments for more info on this)

The holds despite of a big area are hard to match, ok we did set harder than usual but that's part of the point of climbing; you want to test yourself... and when we say hard to match it was purely hard because of our route. On a vertical wall on a route these holds should be ok for most people to haul on, as the angle goes up even a little bit they become exponentially harder. Using them on opposing moves make them a whole bunch of fun to climb on, locking the moves, catching another hold and then moving your feet up slowly and gently so you can catch the next hold is an exercise in movement and balance.


Versatility: Lots, depending upon where you set
Screw Holes: Yes on one of the holds


NICK
Once more the noob puts his two cents in on another set of holds! First of all I'd like to take the time to say OW!!! Being a bit new to the sport my fingers haven't built up to the point where they can take most of my weight on them and as you'll see in the video, the holds are nowhere near as easy to get a hold of as the Shellshocks that are up on the wall. As usual, these new holds sucked chalk like crazy the first few times we tried them out but once they'd been used a bit things started going better. I enjoyed the challenge of this new set a lot more than the Shellshocks but I'm not sure which set I'd pick for a wall of my own. The texture of the new holds was a bit smooth for my liking as I prefer a rougher feel which gives me the impression of more grip but that's just a question of preference and not worth much consideration since the holds had excellent grip after a bit of use. The overall shape of the set was great, not to easy to find a good grip but that made them all the more challenging and I for one think that's a good thing!
Not much more to say about them really. I liked them a fair amount and the pain they induced wasn't unbearable so I'll say they are a worthy addition to any wall, gym or home. Oh! Despite what's shown in the video, I did finally manage to get through the first route but I don't know how much longer the holds will stay on the wall so I might not be able to do it in reverse. Fingers crossed, noob out! :D


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