Thursday, October 15, 2009

Review > Revolution > Huecos L2 & Fossils S1

Revolution Climbing
The company once called Pusher was a big player in the early days of climbing holds. If you, like us, spend a lot of time at the local gym you might have spotted a Pusher hold from the “P” that they would brand their holds with. Well out of the ashes that was Pusher, the phoenix rose as Revolution Climbing. Revolution sent us a whole box of holds, some big, others small, and we ended up getting a large selections of sets to play with. When we started off with this review, noodles and I couldn’t decide which set to review first so to make our lives a little easier, we decided to review two sets in one. Noodles let me pick out the sets and he was a little surprised from the selection I made. With the variety of holds on hand, I wanted two sets that would be different and settled on the Huecos L2 and Fossils sets








Good thing Revolution Climbing marks all their holds with a code so you can distinguish which holds go together. Its pretty simple, each set is designated a letter (in our case “H” for the huecos and “F” for the fossils) and the sizes…well..its pretty redundant, L for large, M for medium…but it’s a nice touch and it makes it easier to organize your holds. We got 8 sets all molded in the same color so having the sets marked on the holds made it really easy to find the sets for our review.
I chose these two sets for one main reason. Between the two sets, there are a variety of grips. The fossils are the smaller set of the two and they’re mainly crimps but are textured so it seconds as a pinch. The larger Hueco set has three jugs and two pinches.

Revolution has a large range of holds that they’ve divided up in four main categories. The Huecos are found in the “Real Series Holds” and we had the Large 2 series. I’ve never been to Texas but I’ve seen many a climbing video from Hueco and the variety of pockets and crimps are reflected in the Hueco series holds. What makes this a good set is that the shapes are quite different, the only common thread being the inspiration of the place by which they are named, and if it weren’t for the code on the holds you could almost say that these holds come from different sets. The pockets are big enough to for a full hand with room to spare and have a deep scoop where you can easily get grip on, except that they are thin and when we get them on overhanging terrain they are not as easy as they seem. So we raised the bar a little and put them on the roof. Matching on the roof? Fail! The holds are big, but if you try to get the match there isn’t enough room for all you fingers so you actually need to match with three fingers on the hold which proved to be a little too much for our fingers.

The pinches have an interesting shape. They are both drastically different from each other but are both large one hand pinches On the one hand you have a geometric shape with no incut and while the other hold has a weird crescent moon shape that has some features on it so you can get a better squeeze on the pinch. They’re pretty big and most climbers won’t find a problem climbing on them.


SUGGESTED USES FOSSILS



The Fosils are bolt on crimps. They have a slight incut but there’s not much to hold onto. These holds were also in a route at our local gym. Holds of this size are great on routes and for moves that require a lot of balance. You don’t want to be cranking hard on these holds all night and we didn’t want our fingers to hurt too much in the morning so we set some short moves on the vertical wall. My guess is that these holds could make it comfortably to a 30 degree wall but the steeper stuff is reserved for the brave. There are larger sets series but we have the smallest bolt on holds from this series and were limited to our vertical wall. Crimping for the most part is uncomfortable and painful, but the Fossils have a good shape that doesn’t hurt as much as other crimps. They have a texture and sometimes, on other holds, the texture may have sharp edges that dig into your fingers but the crimps from this set are comfortable.

SUGGESTED USES HUECOS



Any angle and even the roof. It might not be the best place for them but with pockets that big we couldn’t resist ourselves. But that’s only half the set. The other pinches are good fro vertical and even shallow overhangs. We could have put them on the 45, but the pockets with the pinches gave us a good variety and we could make a longer problem with the holds that we got. The set is great for anyone…I mean anyone. Novice climbers will have no problems with the jugs while working on their pinch. Want to set hard? No problem here. You can try out an undercling on one of the jugs or better yet, put them on the roof. The jugs are deceiving and harder to hold on to than you’d expect.


Versatility: The Huecos are jugs so there's a bunch of uses, the Fossils are pretty well one use
Screw Holes: No not needed

All of the holds have a "R" for Revolution and letter denoting their set and size, this is a godsend when you're digging through a bucket of holds looking for the rest of a set. Thankfully Jeremy has a brain that remembers what holds are where and the number of holds in a set, so we're not so bad, but thank god for the letters on the holds!!



5 comments:

Anonymous said...

You guys have seen enough holds, how do these holds, (or any holds for that matter) compare to other companies in terms of size for the dollar?

Cam

ntmb said...

Hey Cam,

That's an interesting point and something we've been working on in the background as data take a lot of time to sort through

If you look at the price of the holds (Fossils) five holds are $15, that's $3 per hold, looking at other companies offerings that price is bang in the middle (Looking at my numbers... the lowest was $2.60 per hold for a five set and one of the highest being $5.25 (for a set of 4))
So their price point if you go across the board is very very on point and something that shouldn't surprise anyone.

How do the holds compare against other companies? Well Revolution is a old old company (formerly Pusher), they have a good range of shapes and add more to the line up from time to time (Not as much as some people) again they're in the middle for how often they add or refine new shapes.

Against other peoples products these (Poly) holds are comfortable to hold and of a good size if you compared.. this is a near impossible thing to do as each company has their own guides to what is a certain size. One mans XL is someone elses L. They are quite weighty and if mistreated are prone to chipping, but their mix has changed of late so that problem should be lessened. Again for size of holds if I take an average off of the top of my head again they are on par.

Would I recommend Revolutions holds, yes of course. Their shapes on the whole are well thought out and executed. It depends upon personal taste and what exactly you were looking for in a hold. I'd need to know more to offer any advice on what to look at

The hold market is pretty well flooded with shapes month in and month out, some people do simple shapes well, others complex and dual texture. There's not been one hold from Revolution that hasn't been of a high standard, sure I've heard and seen a few horror stories about every companies holds, but most people have their customer service down so any problems are dealt with quickly

Does that answer your question?

Anonymous said...

"One mans XL is someone elses L." This would be the root of my question.

I'm shopping and I see... A. (5 holds XL in size from company A) and ...
B. (4 holds L in size from company B) and both sets are the same price?

A clarification of company sizing would be awesome. Right now I've been going to the local gym and just feeling up what they've got there, and then picking them out off the net.
thanks, Cameron

ntmb said...

We have a grid on a board that we we're going to start using to show hold size in a few photos

The problem we / you / I have is that if we take two diff companies: Project and say E-Grips. Look at Projects Large holds, now look at E-Grips... they're going to look small in comparison

I did mention the idea of standardizing sizes for all companies to a few major hold makers and it fell on deaf ears I'm afraid... maybe I'll try again.

I'll talk to Chris tonight and we'll make sure to include a size chart into all further reviews going forward (we will check averages on hold sizes) and we'll see how that goes

As for prices... if you want bang for your buck then people like Atomik / Uncarved Block and a few others that offer free shipping to the lower 48 (I think) are people to look at for holds. Then you look at sets you like and then take the price and then divide by the number of holds to get what you're paying for... of course the 4 or 5 holds in a set of the same size is a problem

Anonymous said...

It would be great to see some reviews on some of Revolutions biggest holds from their sets.