Thursday, October 15, 2009
Good thing Revolution Climbing marks all their holds with a code so you can distinguish which holds go together. Its pretty simple, each set is designated a letter (in our case “H” for the huecos and “F” for the fossils) and the sizes…well..its pretty redundant, L for large, M for medium…but it’s a nice touch and it makes it easier to organize your holds. We got 8 sets all molded in the same color so having the sets marked on the holds made it really easy to find the sets for our review.
I chose these two sets for one main reason. Between the two sets, there are a variety of grips. The fossils are the smaller set of the two and they’re mainly crimps but are textured so it seconds as a pinch. The larger Hueco set has three jugs and two pinches.
Revolution has a large range of holds that they’ve divided up in four main categories. The Huecos are found in the “Real Series Holds” and we had the Large 2 series. I’ve never been to Texas but I’ve seen many a climbing video from Hueco and the variety of pockets and crimps are reflected in the Hueco series holds. What makes this a good set is that the shapes are quite different, the only common thread being the inspiration of the place by which they are named, and if it weren’t for the code on the holds you could almost say that these holds come from different sets. The pockets are big enough to for a full hand with room to spare and have a deep scoop where you can easily get grip on, except that they are thin and when we get them on overhanging terrain they are not as easy as they seem. So we raised the bar a little and put them on the roof. Matching on the roof? Fail! The holds are big, but if you try to get the match there isn’t enough room for all you fingers so you actually need to match with three fingers on the hold which proved to be a little too much for our fingers.
The pinches have an interesting shape. They are both drastically different from each other but are both large one hand pinches On the one hand you have a geometric shape with no incut and while the other hold has a weird crescent moon shape that has some features on it so you can get a better squeeze on the pinch. They’re pretty big and most climbers won’t find a problem climbing on them.
SUGGESTED USES FOSSILS
The Fosils are bolt on crimps. They have a slight incut but there’s not much to hold onto. These holds were also in a route at our local gym. Holds of this size are great on routes and for moves that require a lot of balance. You don’t want to be cranking hard on these holds all night and we didn’t want our fingers to hurt too much in the morning so we set some short moves on the vertical wall. My guess is that these holds could make it comfortably to a 30 degree wall but the steeper stuff is reserved for the brave. There are larger sets series but we have the smallest bolt on holds from this series and were limited to our vertical wall. Crimping for the most part is uncomfortable and painful, but the Fossils have a good shape that doesn’t hurt as much as other crimps. They have a texture and sometimes, on other holds, the texture may have sharp edges that dig into your fingers but the crimps from this set are comfortable.
SUGGESTED USES HUECOS
Any angle and even the roof. It might not be the best place for them but with pockets that big we couldn’t resist ourselves. But that’s only half the set. The other pinches are good fro vertical and even shallow overhangs. We could have put them on the 45, but the pockets with the pinches gave us a good variety and we could make a longer problem with the holds that we got. The set is great for anyone…I mean anyone. Novice climbers will have no problems with the jugs while working on their pinch. Want to set hard? No problem here. You can try out an undercling on one of the jugs or better yet, put them on the roof. The jugs are deceiving and harder to hold on to than you’d expect.
Versatility: The Huecos are jugs so there's a bunch of uses, the Fossils are pretty well one use
Screw Holes: No not needed
All of the holds have a "R" for Revolution and letter denoting their set and size, this is a godsend when you're digging through a bucket of holds looking for the rest of a set. Thankfully Jeremy has a brain that remembers what holds are where and the number of holds in a set, so we're not so bad, but thank god for the letters on the holds!!