Friday, February 5, 2010

Review > Delire Holds > Mixed / Small Holds

elire climbing holds
We'll got right off of the bat with this one, you either like Delire holds or you don't. We know plenty of people that fall into both category's... we won't name names, but after the Delire round of the Tour De Bloc some of us came away as fans and others still didn't like them.
It seems that Delire, like any hold company, have split the field straight in the middle. Some people don't like the shapes or that they're resin. But as usual we're split here at Climbing Hold Review. Some of us like the shapes, others don't.

This set is another that Noodles grabbed during Xmas, we wanted some more stuff and this is what we found at MEC. Eve actually picked them out as she liked the colors... there was lots of interesting stuff there, but as we'd not looked closely at any of Delire holds we figured it was time as they're a Quebec company that we should look at their holds! (Yeah we know, we've had Uncarved Block holds from Australia before someone 2hrs up the road :P)

With that being said, we give you the "Small Hold Set":

As far as we can tell these holds are mainly the Alluviale set (pictured below); The top left, top right and middle right are from the same set
We have seven holds rather than 6.... after further research we found that these holds are a mixed bag that are produced for MEC for people to buy in store, so pretty much what we did then :)From the outset Eve wanted to play with the holds, so she set something that went across the 45 degree wall from the top left hand corner all the way down to the bottom right and then into the middle of the 30 degree wall, the end was a low match that stopped most people pretty well dead... that's if they didn't get stumped by the moves on the 45 :D

People ended up getting stumped on both routes, neither of them were easy, so we set a bounce around route and just set easy warm ups with them afterwards... on easy terrain these holds offer simple easy climbing... nothing spectacular at all, the shapes are on the whole intricate and that sometimes leads to wrong hand placements and some sore skin. Delire have a lot of holds out there, and they're in La Cordee and MEC if you're in Canada so you can go and feel some of their products before you buy them, and that's something we'd suggest because you're either going to love them or hate them... us we're split 50/50

SUGGESTED USES:



This set has a little something for everyone, get the joke? The set is called Petite! The holds aren't actually that small, ranging from 2 pads to almost mini jugs; there are pinches and edges as well, it really depends upon how you rotate the holds... that is what's going to dictate what you're going to get.

We set an interesting bunch of routes that encompassed most moves that you'd want to try with a set of holds, the two that stick in our minds are the two that you see in the video... Eve's tricky start route on the 45 and Noodles route that started under the steps... the one with the low undercut on a hold that's completely marginal

The holds are ok on the 45 degree wall, there are some sharp areas and 80% of the holds are not too bad on there.. where we suggest you go with these is nothing more than a 30 degree wall, the holds will give most people enough of a challenge there to be worth it. We would say... "go for it, hit the 45" but the shapes don't really lend themselves to super hard pulling, there are some sharp / thin areas that means we'd suggest some kind of caution on our part.

OVERALL BUILD
  • Number of holds: 7
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): We don't know, there's no price on the packaging. The Alluviale set is five holds at $29.99 / 7 = $4.30 per hold
  • Color: Blue and white swirled
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Flat, one hold out of the seven was slightly off
  • Texture: Standard resin
  • Set size: Small
  • Versatility: So-so
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
Overall build quality is pretty high with this set of holds, they're resin holds that stand up to abuse better than others made from the same medium. The texture is grippy but not overly so, the shapes are what dictate where you're going to grab and at times you're still going to fall off if you set crazy moves. The backs are all sanded flat, with one exception that's slightly off... colorwise you can order pretty well whatever you like, ours were grabbed from a store so it was limited on what we could grab, but the white and blue swirls are nice and stand out on our wall

All the bolt holes are bang on, straight and true as you'd expect. There aren't any set screw holes, they could be added but we had no problems with anything spinning on us

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Delire holds are all made from resin

PACKING / SHIPPING:
These holds are store brought they we pre-packed on a backing

RATING:
Noodles:
I'll be honest and say that I was never a fan of Delire holds, I've had some for ages that I grabbed before I started the site and I've never really wanted to review them. This years Tour De Bloc comp kind of turned me on to them a little more? Why? (And it's going to sound like I'm bitching) Because the comp, held at a Delire gym was 90, maybe 95% Delire holds... that means to be in the comp you had no choice but to climb on them. I enjoyed some of the holds so much that I've ordered some that we WILL review in the future, and this time it won't take two years, that much I can promise!!!

Why didn't I like their shapes? It's simple really, there are a lot of shapes that are too complex, even artistic for my liking... but that's me. Add some sharp edges in places (and by this I mean thin and therefore there's no space for them to be rounded) and then it's not something I want to spend a lot of time climbing on... and I spend a lot of time climbing, I've had enough injurys to know when I have to be careful or just plain to avoid.

Is this set something that I'd avoid? Yes and no is the simple answer. There are some nice shapes here that climb really well, there's one or two that i'd simply chuck if I'd not paid for them) because if misused (and I will do this) there is a high chance that I'd hurt myself or someone else. Eve's route really brought out the good in the entire set of holds, something I'll be honest and think couldn't be done, then my route... well my route was just evil, but again it highlighted that these holds if used correctly are a lot of fun.

I'm surprised, these holds are a pleasent surprise, after hearing all the neigh sayers and doubters and even if I admit it... I have some holds that I've used for 4 odd years that I didn't even know were from Delire (they were a present) that I still use today and still enjoy means one thing and one thing only... go and have a look, yes they're resin holds and yes some shapes should be avoided but they should be looked at as the prices really aren't that bad

Stay tuned, I went and picked some holds that flat out kicked my ass at the TDB comp, so much so I've brought them so you can see some holds that I think you'll really enjoy :)

Chris:
Her comes Santa Clause, Here comes Santa Clause, Right down Santa Claus Lane....So Noodles somehow convinced us to go to the Mountain Equipment Co-op on Boxing day, and although I ended up being happy with the purchases, the hour spent trying to get out of the parking lot was not worth it ;) The Tour de Bloc held a competition at the Delire gym in Quebec City and we sampled many of their shapes at the comp. They have a distinct feel to them and are more technical of a hold that force you to hold a particular way, there are a lot of small features that give a different grip as you rotate the hold.

Like Noodles, I never was a big fan of Delire holds. We don't see them around very much and the technical aspect makes it so you find yourself getting spat off the wall. Having climbed at the Delire gym in last years Tour de Bloc, I've come to appreciate climbing on these holds. They can be very deceitful, keep you on your toes and hoping that you catch the right part.

I liked this set. I've seen a lot of their shapes in stores around Montreal and I would be reluctant to buy some but these holds felt nice when we sampled them in the store. The shapes are nice and round, with the exception of one little jug. The holds are big for one hand and too small for two, and in our problems, we had matching the holds was always difficult. Our problem came when we got two hands onto the little jug. Its not the most comfortable of shapes.

PROS:
  • Prices are great and you can get them at stores in Canada
  • Beginner friendly sizes
  • Good color
CONS:
  • Resin holds, but they are pretty strong
  • One of the holds is out of place in the set and is a little sharp on the fingers
  • Delire logo sometimes gets in the way when you want to use a hold upside down
  • Holds didn't come with T nuts, just normal nuts were used

2 comments:

Louie Anderson said...

Walkthroughs are getting better and better. I like the superimposed hold images as you discuss each one.

DJ_AX said...

True dat