Thursday, February 11, 2010

Testing > Hangboards Part Two > Delire Redpoint Station

elire climbing holds

After training on both of Metolius' boards for a couple of months and after countless sessions hanging about Noodles went out and grabbed a Delire Redpoint Station. This is Delires compact home training board, the board is sub $100 and the store that it came from had loads of different color combination's.

Question is... after training on two of the most popular boards on the planet how would Delires board fare? (You can read the first review: here)

WHAT BOARD?
We've covered two boards already, the Metolius Simulator 3D and Project boards. Next up is the Delire Redpoint station.. it's not as compact as the Metolius Project board and it's not as large as the 3D Simulator.. it's right in the middle. For price point it's more expensive than both of the Metolius boards. What's new for us is that there are options for pinch training this time and the texture is a little more aggressive... and there are two pockets right at the bottom that are the slimmest things we've ever seen on a board!

The board came already mounted to a piece of wood, it is attached by two T nuts. All the screws, 6 in all, were in a bag... so technically from the store all you're going to need it 5 minutes and then you should be hanging around.

Redpoint Station
  • 50cm x 28cm
  • Price: $82.99 (CDN)
  • Varied grip positions
  • Included mounting board and hardware
If you're looking for a board then here's a handy list of what's out there (It's not a full list):
  • Revolution's Grillito: here
  • Entre Prise's Hangtime: here
  • Cryptochild's Ironpalm: here
  • Asana's Talon: here
  • Uprisings Revolution Board: here
  • Rise Hold's Fingerboard: here
  • Holdz Fingerboards: here
  • Osm'ose boards: here
  • Moon Climbing's Fingerboard: here
  • Nicros Hangboards: here
  • Bendcrete's Classic: here
  • Metolius Boards: here
INSTALATION
In our case we have lots of space and as the board came attached to a board all we did was mount our new board onto our existing wall. It took about 5 minutes to get the board on the wall and for us to start training... all we had to do is put in 6 screws through the pre-drilled holes in the mounting board. So far this board is the easiest to set up and get going :) It is heavy so make sure that there are two people to do this.

TRAINING
There wasn't any training material with the board, so we suggest you modify the Metolius regime from: here You can also read some good training tips from Eric Horsts training books or his page: here

What we did this time was we took what we'd used from training on the Metolius boards and then we adapted it to the Delire Redpoint Station. The obvious differences between the three boards (Metolius and Delire) is that both of the Metoilus boards have more pockets and that the texture that you're hanging from is much finer and therefore less harsh on the skin. This time we also added in some pinch hangs as it's something that is missing from the Metolius boards. It took us a couple of sessions to get the numbers right, on the first few times you can see that we'd been a little ambitious in what we wanted to do, we tried to pack in a lot of exercises into a 10 minutes sequence and it was just too much. You'll see that on our second session, which is the one we filmed, that there is a lot of back and forth about the regime...

Eventually we got our sequence down and we ran the board for over two months, there are areas that Noodles likes and areas that Chris likes there's little or no common ground.

Noodles & Training
So after months of training on two boards we've switched it up and grabbed a new board and started a new regime. We've been getting stronger, with people running hang board sessions at least once a week... people were super excited to see the new board and couldn't wait to get it onto the wall. Once up you can start to feel out the board by hanging from it to see how the edges and pockets are going to feel as you exercise on them.

My first thoughts were that the edges could do with a rounder edge upon them as although they're not knife blade sharp, they are sharper than I'd actually like them to be. Edges when you're training are always going to be held with as open a handed position as you can manage, you're not getting your thumb on and crimping down... seeing as the edges range in size from small to quite large I was intrigued to see how they were going to impact my hands. The other thought that came to my mind was the bottom "pockets"... describing them as pockets is actually completely incorrect... super slim edges is closer, we call them "small nasty" because that's what they are... they're bloody small and it would be a feat of pure strength or pure luck if anyone could actually hang on them!!

Once we dialed in what we wanted to do, the board is actually pretty pleasant to use for training. The texture is a little rough on the fingers and some of the edges, as I suspected caused by callouses to get raised a little bit from when I was hanging and pulling on them... so the texture for me is a good and bad thing; it's good because some of the holds on this board are really mental to hold onto and it allows you to actually hang them... and it's bad as when you're holding onto some of the larger shapes you walk away from the session with hands that feel like they've been lightly sanded.

There are a couple of things that I'll point out that I like and dislike against our first review boards:
  • Love: the fact that I can train on two different types of pinches
  • Hate the slopers, they're waaaay too easy
  • Kind of like: the small evil, because I can hang it... not that I really want to
  • Love: Ease of mounting
  • Meh: On the edges, I wish they were rounder
  • Meh: On the pockets, I don't like the shape of them
So there you have it, it's actually better than expected. It's not the smallest board out there and it's not the largest. It's got some shapes that other boards don't have and a texture that for me is slightly too rough. The entire bottom 2 inches of the board for me where the Small Nasty is can be removed, the bottom edge and Small Nasty in my opinion are just too small to be safe to train upon to much

I'd like to say I'm going to go back to the Metoilus Project board to continue my Winter training... but I can't.... The So Ill Iron Palm has to be mounted on the wall tonight!

Chris & Training

So I've come to realize that different boards will better train some grips than others. The Metolius boards are probably the best all round board that I've come across. The problem I have with it is that the edges tend to dig into my fingers and I can feel that they come out with some added strains. I thought this was just the nature of hangboard training but I didn't have this kind of discomfort when training on the Delire board. The curvature of the edge don't put as much strain on my fingers as the Metolius board. Is this a good thing? Will it improve my contact strength? Well...I can't really comment on that and I have no way of really testing out the theory.

The board has pretty much all the same features as the Metolius . It lacks the pockets to isolate two or three finger hangs but I find that this is just a minor detail that can be easily worked around. If you want to isolate the fingers then you can just hang or do your chin ups using just the fingers you want to train. The big difference between the boards is the width. The Metolius board is wider and has the edges going all the way out to the extremities of the board. The Delire boards edges and pockets are smaller than those found on the Simulator and Project boards and has pinches designed into the board which makes it suitable for a more experienced climber.

We had this big debate over the curvature of the board. Metolius has a similar design that is quite obvious when you see images of the board. No w when I say "curvature of the board", I'm talking about the curve of teh board, not the radius of the edge of the hold. The curve on the Delire board is more pronounced. I think that the flatter curve on the Metolius board put more strain on your joints and tendons than the Delire board and may increase the risk of injury. Once again, I have no way of proving this point other than my first hand experience (I haven't injured myself training yet, but my fingers are less strained when training with the Delire board). The stain may also be caused by the deeper pockets in the Metolius board.

So far, each board has its ups and downs, but I personally prefer training on the Delire Redpoint board. We'll see what the So Ill Iron Palm has in store for us :)

OVERALL BUILD
This board for us is either a love or hate affair. We know people that have it at home and they swear by it; which is fair enough. We're split on the board at climbingholdreview, some of us like it some of us don't. The board is well laid out, it's not as wide as some boards on the market so if you're broad shouldered it's going to be a little too thin for you.The texture is like sandpaper, nothing super super grippy, but enough that you're going to notice it on the smaller edges... you're going to come off and you'll feel your skin burning.... even though we've used the board a lot the texture still gets to your hands. The board is very well made, everything is symmetrical and if you take the board off of its mounting board you can see that the back is nice and flat. As the board is resin it is heavy, it's not the easiest to hoist up and to mount so make sure you have two people around when you do this.

It's a well rounded board, but you should look at the radii of the edges before committing any money to buying the board, they're not the nicest out there and they could be better... try before you buy people

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Delires holds and boards are made of resin

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Noodles grabbed this from La Cordee, the board had been well packed as it has come from Quebec City to Montreal. There were a lot of boards from Delire there and they all looked in fine condition

OVERALL
The board is well situated price wise, it's heavy so a one person mounting job is out of the question. If we tally the votes so far on the boards, just between Chris and Noodles and we look at the three boards (Metolius Simulator 3D & Project and the Delire board) Chris prefers the Delire and Noodles prefers the Project Board... so it's 1-1

The board is overall well designed, it has most things people are going to want to train and above some boards it has the ability to add pinch training to your regime.

PROS
  • The board has two pinch options, which is nice
  • Easily mountable
CONS
  • Very heavy
  • Slightly sharp edges
  • Some parts of the board should be just removed

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Noodles: You say the slopers are too easy. How do these compare to the round slopers and the 45's on the Metolious simulator?

ntmb said...

The Metolius has different slopers (two) and they're more full hand the Redpoints are a little smaller.

It also means that you can have a different (wider) or thinner grip on the Metolius board, I find it more versatile, the only thing it misses is pinches