Sunday, March 28, 2010

Review > Revolution > Incuts / Jugs / Slopers (Basic Series holds)

Revolution Climbing
Revolution has standard size sets in where you'll find five holds in each of their bolt on sets. We have plenty of Revolution holds lying around and we've gathered three of their Basic sets together and put them up for a spin on the wall... well another spin on the wall, the first time we climbed on these (so I'm told by Noodles) was in 2008! Revolution changed their mix to polyurethane in 2007, we reviewed shapes made of polyester, but as the shapes are fun we decided to review them anyways!



With all the shapes we have from Revolution, we had plenty of holds to choose from and with the help of their numbering system, we found three sets of different sizes and shapes to play with. The first are small jugs, stamped with a "JS1" so we can identify the hold, and they're simple one hand jugs. Most are ambidextrous, but there one that is more suitable for one hand than the other.

The second set we went with was the medium slopers or "SM2". The evil little slopers fit in your hand but are very shallow and don't give you much to hold onto... but you'll be surprised there's more to them than you think

Lastly we have the large incuts. They are finger friendly positive two hand edges... and they're pretty friendly on the roof

We could really maximize our wall space with the variety of shapes and sizes that we chose from. The sets compliment each other in that they are from the same "Basic" line of holds on the Revolution website. These holds are the all around shapes that you would find in gyms. Nice simple, finger friendly shapes; every wall needs basic, simple shapes that allow you to train for hours on end without stressing your fingers. These holds have an consistent texture that allows you pull for hours on end without ripping layers of skin off.. is this a good thing? Yes it is, there are a lot of friendly shapes out on the market and they should be a staple of every wall, home or commercial, what Revolution has is a lot of shapes in what they call their Basic line!

In fact they have 381 holds in their Basic Line, yes we counted and that includes the jibs (12 sets of 10 jibs per set), either way you look at it that's a lot of shapes to play with.. and then there are all they other shapes that they make that aren't basics... there are the Abstracts / Training and then the Real's.

We've had these for a long while... we've had the incuts and the jugs on the roof, the slopes all over the roof and apart from Noodles obvious hate of the mini jugs these holds have performed really well across the board. Some of the routes we've set on these holds have been just plain hard... we've set some stuff on these that has taken us weeks to get through; not because the holds aren't friendly but because we've wanted to see as far as we could go on these holds. The answer is pretty far... and every time we've walked away without loosing skin and without having any finger pain.


SUGGESTED USES:

JUGS




These holds are small, but deep. We managed to easily dyno to a hold on our 45 degree wall. Now although they're made to be one handed holds, the jug is deep enough so you can get both hand on them, minus a couple of digits. The holds will fit five fingers nicely and to make room for the second hand you'll only be able to get two or three fingers onto the hold. Setters will find that there is one hold of the bunch that is right hand oriented (the second to last hold in the image) that comes with its own thumb catch is great for forcing a move. The set as a whole has been used countless times as warm up routes in our wall.

INCUTS




This is probably the most versatile set out of the three. This medium set is large enough to get both hands onto and the degree of the incut make it so they can be placed on anything from vertical to our 45 degree wall. The incut is very positive and the hold has no sharp edges that dig into the fingers making it ideal for long hard moves on the 45.

SLOPERS





If the jugs had an evil brother, they would be the slopers. Even though they're large, there isn't a whole lot of friction. They're mostly open hand slopes with the exception of one. There is one that is positive and surprisingly enough, its the smallest one! The only way we could stick the slopers on the 45 was by changing the angle using our newest favorite toy, the Motivation volumes :) These holds are best for vertical terrain or slabs, but you can hold onto them on an angle if you're feeling spicy :)

ALL THE SETS

One thing that is apparent with these holds is that although they're different shapes (slopes / incuts / mini jugs) they all compliment each other... sure some holds are left or right hand bias; especially on the mini jugs... but take the three (we have more in the cupboard) sets that we've been playing with and there will be some shapes that you will go back to time and time again because they're just what you're looking for. There are a couple of holds that Noodles in particular likes an he'll pull them out on some routes from time to time... they're what he calls his "go to holds"; that being said there are lots of holds that he loves and that he loves to use and as more and more holds are brought and set with there are holds that will turn up on our warm up routes again and again.... some of the slopers are definitely some of those holds.


OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds: 5 per set
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt on
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds):
  1. Incuts large are: 25 / 5 = $5 per hold
  2. Slopers small are: 20 / 5 = $4 per hold
  3. Jugs small are 19 / 5 = $3.80 per hold
  • Color: Red
  • Bolt placement: Centered
  • Sanding: Good
  • Texture: Smooth
  • Set size: Small Jugs / Medium Slopers / Large Edges
  • Versatility: um...yes
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: None
Revolution have always been pretty good with their build quality, sometimes their bolt holds are a little oval but the poly used in the holds is always the same quality. We've always said you have to be a little bit careful with their holds as they do chip if they're thrown about too much, this is the nature of polyester! We received our holds before they (Revolution) changed their mix, the stuff that they run is much stronger and less prone to chipping, we'll get some in soon and see what's up... and even though we say you have to be careful with these holds when we dropped them during the drop test they performed well... their new holds are slated to be dropped in the next test, so we'll have results for their urethane shapes

The shapes are all well sanded, you can see from the backs that they're uniform and smooth all the way across... there are even sanding lines across the backs of them. The color is the same ol same ol... Revolution doesn't chuck out mad colors... their red is pretty good, a little pinkish but nothing too bad. All of the shapes in this line are very finger friendly and you're not going to worry about too much pain.

All of the holds have a little "R" for Revolution on them, in case you get them mixed up with other holds... they also have a little code on them like "IL2" for Incut Large 2 etc which makes it easier to find them in a large box of other shapes.

There are a couple of bolt holes that are a little oval, but this hasn't caused us an real issues, the holds don't drop on the bolt or cause any problems. Texture wise it's consistent across the board, there aren't any dimples or bumps... everything is smooth and even when chalked up the holds grip better than you think.

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Polyester it's a little fragile. Mishandling will result in chipped edges. Revolution have changed their mix, it's urethane now

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Not too bad, some of the holds had moved about in transit and were a little scuffed.

RATING:
Noodles:
Revolution seem to have it right, the holds we looked at are from the Basic line... and basic is what you're going to get. No dual tex, not madly intricate shapes just simple fairly friendly shapes. Why do I say "fairly friendly?" because the jugs could do with a slightly more rounded lip, did you see my face when I hit the hold on the roof? Yeah that was a picture... my full weight was on a hold that was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay sharper than I expected, add to that some dodgy feet and you're going to get me pulling some weird faces :)

These holds have kicked about the wall for nearly a year and a half (so this is actually more of a long term test as well as a look at their Basic line up), some of the holds are showing wear from where they've been thrown haphazardly into boxes, dropped and generally chucked about; you know the daily life / use / abuse of climbing holds... that being said if you look at the drop test results and the fact that Revolution holds are polyester they came out really well. Don't get me wrong, you can look at some of the more intricate shapes and it'll chip on you... that's just part and parcel of owning these holds. I'd love the polyester to be stronger that's for sure, but let us point out that these holds arrived before Revolution changed their mix... so we have poly holds, they've changed it up to polyurethane. Look at the Boss we have that's bombproof!

If I look at the three five hold sets that we're talking about today, the jugs / slopers and incuts that are only part of the Basic line up and had to pick a favorite it's going to be simple (HA!) really simple... the slopes; there's nothing wrong with the other holds, but those slopes are palm sized and you are really going to wonder if you can stick them... the poly is at first feel.. slick, add chalk and then they grip better than you think. We actually kind of replicated a move from the Planet Holds review from last week... the one where there was a slope on the Infinity Board base (the one we use as a volume) just to compare similar(ish) holds and when you take into account texture difference and the fact that the material is completely different both of the holds grip really well... in fact the lesser textured hold came out a little better, but not by much

I've always said that simple shapes for training are where it's at, the basis of you wall set up should be clean simple finger friendly shapes of different sizes... this line is just that. Simple, clean and some might say boring... when someone says boring I say finger (i.e: training friendly) There are other shape lines in the basic range... pinches and pockets. All lines have jibs as well... so you can look at an size hold from jib to monster, so enough holds for any hold-fiend... the pocket jibs were reviewed here as part of a jibs review back in October 2008... that's before we built the 45... when I made our first CHR shirts (the ones with Hold Whore) on the back... ah happy days, it's also one of my favorite videos that we made...

Hell, as the jugs / incuts / slopes / pocket jibs are all there, I'll post it again... a blast from the past (before we rolled into the land of HD and fast pc's)

Chris:
My piece of advice for anyone who has a home wall is to stock up on basic shapes like these. Their simple, functional and won't burn a whole in your pocket. The way Revolution catalogs their holds makes it very easy to find what you're looking for. They don't have flashy names for their lines and if its jugs you're looking for, all you need to do is find 'jugs" on their website and you're home free.

What I like about their sets is that most of the holds are very similar, but they always incorporate a shape that is unlike the other shapes in the set. Take for example the medium Slopers. They're all you're run of the mill slopers, open hand grip with just enough friction to keep you from getting spat off the wall, but there is one that is smaller and more positive than the others. You could almost classify it as a crimp since the positive edge is shallow and there is a small lip on the edge of the hold where you'll find that extra bit of friction.

PROS:
  • Finger friendly
  • Cheap!!
  • Sold in Europe
CONS:
  • (Minor and a mute point) Our holds chip, but that's because we're looking at the old polyester shapes not the polyurethane ones
  • Some of the bolt holes were a little oval

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

that should be 'moot' point.

ntmb said...

damn it :P
thanks