Thursday, April 8, 2010

Review > DRCC > Slots

DRCC
Something has been happening of late... lots of weird things. Let us explain!
The Large Hadron Collider has gone online and has smashed things together...
We've had to make two new symbols... one for dual texture holds and another for pockets...
And we have some new DRCC dual texture holds called the Slots...
and there is a color blemish on one of the holds (not in the image above, watch the walk through)

See strange!

Something is not right, but it's only a little blemish and it's not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things.. the other thing is something I noticed on the holds when we were filming the walk through... have a watch and then we'll explain:

There is a word on one of the holds... IRIE! It's a Rastafarian word meaning: I respect i eternally, refers to positive emotions or feelings, or anything that is good. Specifically it refers to high emotions and peaceful vibrations. That's one thing these holds don't give is positive emotions... high emotions... yeah, because you're going to have to work hard to get any problem set on these holds. Peaceful emotions... hahahahahaha we were not peaceful on these holds in anyway shape or form. Why? That's simple.

There are times when you have to be exact with your hands and feet, these holds embody that, you have to be so exact with both on these holds that it's kind of crazy.

We set our routes whenever possible on just one brand of holds, as similarity between sets isn't uncommon... this time we just grabbed all of our dual texture holds from the DRCC and we just went a little crazy. Rules were in place on some routes to make the problems a little harder (no side wall). Pulling off of the 45 on the dual texture crimps to the dual texture rail to the dual texture slots caused less problems than we thought. It's the Slots that slowed us down in a big way, we tried dead pointing the last move and failed and then on different sequences we were just shut down by the nature of the moves. These holds do teach you a lot about slow movement, careful consideration of what you're about to try... that's for sure... if Vince over at the DRCC feels the need to make some DT feet that are slots then wow it's going to be fun going to the gym again :)

SUGGESTED USES:





As these holds are built with one thing seemingly in mind; to test your hand eye co-ordination (and they do that very well) you can't go too steep with them, that and they're not all that positive. There are positive areas, generally one side is more positive than the other depending upon which way you have them orientated the positive side still isn't that bomber... they're going to test you whichever way they're placed... if you start putting these up into a crack like position that's where the screaming starts.

These holds are hard the way we played with them, but when we weren't filming we had them set as some nice warm up routes and they're wonderful on a wall up to about 15 degrees on the "hard" side, great on a 30 on the "easy" side, super hard on a 45 whichever way you rotate them and if you're playing cracks and side pulls then you don't want to really go about 15 degrees as they get very technical and very very hard on anything steeper

One thing has to be said is that four holds isn't enough to really make a full on route with, this set needs to be extended so route setters can chuck out full on 50ft lead routes into their gym... it'll most probably end up either very easy or super hard (depending upon the setter of course) but it'll definitely get a lot of traffic! Home walls probably won't see too many of these holds, at $15 per hold you can spend your money elsewhere and get more bang for your buck... but if you're looking to really test some friends then these (again) are where you'll end up looking

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds: 4
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): 59.95 / 4 = $15 per hold
  • Color: Swirls
  • Bolt placement: Well placed
  • Sanding: All the holds are rubber backed
  • Texture: Dual texture, totally slick on the outside, textured in the slots
  • Set size: Large
  • Versatility: Not bad
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: Yes on all of the holds
Apart from one color blemish, and it really is a single drip in the dual texture these holds are still some of the best made holds out there... especially when it comes to dual texture, there is simply nothing as slick out there; it's like glass and you cannot hold onto it... hell it's hard even throwing your thumb on the slickness and trying to keep it from moving.

Precision is the name of the game with these holds, there aren't going to be any wild throws to the slots you have to be exact in everything you do.. from where you place your hands and feet to where you try to match and move. These holds are something we'd call "slow", but this we mean there is no speed involved in using them... you have to be slow and measured in your actions... the reaction is being spat onto the floor :)

The build is superb, we've never used the set screw placements on any of our DRCC holds... that's because we have the rubber back on all of our holds :P But if needed the placement is there so it can be used and to be honest even the screw holes are pretty on these shapes.
Given that these holds are pretty thin the DRCC even had the mind to hollow back one of the shapes, the largest one, and it's light and yet still has good structure to it.

We cannot comment on the sanding as the holds are rubber backed, but what we will talk about (again) is the DRCC's dual texture, god knows how they get it so slick and thank god they do because these things are just pretty to look at... dual texture and dual color swirled holds? Yeah, that's what they are and they're pretty sick. Texture wise the grip within the slots feels more aggressive than the DRCC's normal texture... and you need it, if there was a little less texture these holds would just be paper weights.

WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane, we've only seen two broken DRCC holds and it's because they were small crimps that were tightened with a torque wrench... these things had been hammered to hell. (See Noodles comments for more on this topic)

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Very good, the box was massive for the amount of holds

RATING:
Noodles:
It seems the longer I write reviews the more pet peeves I have :) Nothing massive just things I'd like to see changed in the climbing industry as a whole. Wonder what they are? Here we go:
  1. Calling a set of holds crimps when they're just edges.
  2. A set of medium holds that aren't really mediums they're smaller or larger
  3. See 2. I'd like the industry to go to "semi standard sizing" so a customer knows what size hold they're getting. Don't read anything into that, right now some sets give you way more bang for your buck
  4. People with torque wrenches setting
Let me explain number 4 for you. Here's how I think you should use a torque wrench to tighten a hold. Put hold on wall, line up the bolt, tighten bolt with fingers so some threads are used, use torque wrench to tighten the hold... ON IT'S LOWEST SETTING, hand tighten the hold with a wrench, climb. It's just a case of common sense, and I'm not fighting on the DRCC's or any other companies behalf, it's just something that I think that hammering a hold into a wall isn't good a) for the hold (it might break), b) it isn't good for the wall (t nut need replacing more often) and c) it isn't good for gym owners (they have to go bitch at a company to get the hold replaced)

Right I'll get off of my soap box now :)

It seems I had my genre's mixed up this week, although I managed to keep my comments in the walk through in the sci fi realm! Tron or Star Wars? Both really, not that these shapes are mad futuristic or anything... they're just good simple pockets done very very well with dual texture. I'd go so far and repeat myself from other DRCC reviews..
"The DRCC makes the best dual texture shapes on the planet"
Maybe some of the shapes aren't to everyone's liking, but the DT is just mental slick....

The slots are a simple idea, again done very well, a pocket like these without the dual texture is a good hold to have in your route setting arsenal, it's still going to test your hand / eye co-ordination but you're going to have a little more to play with with your feet when you get up above the shapes. These holds leave you no option but to put your toes into the slots, so it's very easy to force moves and a sequence will happen the way you'd want it to go down.

Route setters, doff your hats... and get some of these for your next finals problems because you're going to have a hoot with these. Even though I love the holds and the shapes I'd like to see smaller and larger sizes (although there is a large hold The Big Slot that is a monster) so I can climb on full routes... these holds are brutal on a 45 and I'd have liked them to be a little more positive inside... then climbers that want to work on their feet on steep walls can monkey around all day long. I'm really hoping for more of these style holds from the DRCC because right now they're all going to end up in a single sequence on routes and that's pretty much where your crux will be! At $15 a hold, although they're of a good size they're expensive for most home wall owners

Vince... goto work please :D

Chris:
Vince? Did you make these holds? Are you Ok? If you've been following us for a while you've probably come across some old DRCC review and you've heard us raving about the holds created by the DRCC brothers. On a normal day, DRCC's holds would come through the door in pristine condition, but we've gotten a little surprise as of late. The colors on the hold has obviously bled and it was a detail that we actually missed on the Double Barrel and made sure this time to check it out. Not much of a big deal considering the amount of detail and work that the Cocciolone brother put into their creations.

DRCC has their dual texture down to a T. They had these up at the Tour de Bloc competition at True North climbing gym and one person was brave enough to venture iin and put his foot on the slick part of the hold. The only thing left behind was the "burning rubber trail" left behind by his shoes.

I liked this set of holds. I would consider these the little brother of the Double Barrel with one slight difference, the Double Barrel looks very menacing but is a much easier hold to grip than expected. With the slots, you get what you see: shallow pockets flirting with slopey madness! If you've seen the video (which I'm sure you have) then you've seen us fall repeatedly on the 30 degree wall. These holds won't give you much, and if you can't get a grip with them, they'll always make a very nice paper weight.

PROS:
  • They'll school you on dead pointing that's for sure!
  • Nothing like them on the market
  • Rubber backing lessens spinners
CONS:
  • Not enough shapes in the range for full routes
  • A little expensive for home walls

3 comments:

face said...

Ahhh such attention paid to the color blemish. I spoke about that to the MasterCaster Brian who casted those holds. We were aware of that and we accepted the spot as part of the art.

We have in the past however completed several custom orders with specific color and patterns (extra special requests) whereas such a blemish would not be acceptable.

Personally... I liken it to a painters brush strokes.

face said...

Oh and I've got to add. ... this holds are some of my most favorite to set with!
... Vince at TheDRCC dot com

Bonner1040 said...

I have these holds and many others and DRCC has the best finish quality of any company on the market. Perfect dualtex, softback, straight bolt holes and countersunk set screws..

Also many of my holds were made by Brian the 'mastercaster' and if he let it out of his shop I'm sure it was gorgeous.... I got the 'peace sign' from DRCC with a tree like color scheme, best looking hold ever!