Sunday, August 22, 2010

Review > World Cup > Diablo Duo Tex 1 & 2


Its been a while since we've spoken of World I'm not anticipating the 2011 World Cup Climbing season but of the World Cup dual tex Diablo climbing holds:)
World Cup Climbing Holds is a relatively new player in the hold game. Jeff is the owner of World Cup and he's been operating his company out of Columbus Ohio for a couple of years now he sent us the Diablos when they were fresh off the press. The Diablos are one of the newest shapes available from World Cup Climbing Holds.

Now you can see that these two holds are duo textured but their shapes are quite different and there is a good reason for that. These holds are sold separately and can be found in different locations on the World Cup Climbing Holds website. Diablo 2 is in the pinch category on the site while Diablo 1 is found in the sloper category of the site. Now both holds can be used as pinches since the textured part of the holds are on opposing sides of the holds and gives you some friction when pinching down on the holds with your thumb. Although both holds can be considered pinches, the Diablo 1 is round and brings your hands into more of an open hand position.

We would consider these holds to be aimed at a experienced climber. The grip is very specific and you can only grab the holds one way and when we had them up on the 45, the holds took us for a ride. When we initially set the route, we wanted to put both holds onto the wall but realized that we would be in over our heads so we decided on one. The debate was over which one do we put on the 45? Well we settled on the sloper and went onto trying to send the problem. While Chris's abs were aching over a workout from the previous day, Noodles and Eve both found different sequences to get them though the problem. Now we know that these holds are not good on the 45 for the average climber.

As the night went on we each had our chance to set a problem with the holds. These holds ended up being harder than expected. Our saving grace was in the fact that we managed to use the slick part of the hold. When Eve set a low start on the vertical wall, we used the textured part as a pinch but we needed the slick part of the hold to help get ourselves off the ground. We also used the slick part of the hold when we placed the Diablo 2 on the roof. The hold was positioned so that we had minimal use of the textured ares so we managed to use the textured part to get through the sequence. Now its not to say that their duo texture is not slick but quite the opposite, it glistens. The reason we could hold onto the holds is in the shape. The Diablo 1 is geometric in shape and there are flat spots on the hold were you can get enough of your fingers onto it to pull.The Diablo 2 cuts in a little where the hold meets the wall and we could squeeze our fingers into that area to keep us afloat.

Three different routes by three different people in one night? WHY? Because despite using these holds a bunch we've not managed to film anything that actually made any sense, they've always been moved around the wall but we found that having them on a corner the best place (for us) to have them as it gave us some nice transition moves for our long routes on the wall :)


Ok I know you`re expecting us to say that we were thinking of putting these guys on the roof but the thought didn't even occur to us. We're crazy, but not that crazy ;) So either of these holds may be classified as pinches or slopers although the Diablo 1 is much slopier than the second incarnate of the hold, the hold is small enough so anyone can easily get their thumb around the other side. With that said, since they can both be considered pinches, they can be placed on steeper terrain than you would expect.

These guys only rock in at 30 degrees because after that they're pretty well unusable, unless you set something really really specific, a real specific move with the hold... moving up from underneath these guys is super hard!!

  • Number of holds: 2 each hold is sold separately
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): $19.95 each
  • Color: Red and Black but available in other colors
  • Bolt placement: Centered
  • Sanding: Good
  • Hollow backed: Yes, with a center column
  • Texture: Duo Texture
  • Set size: medium
  • Versatility: Limited, but there are a lot of options if you're creative
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: None
  • Shaper: Jeff
The Diablo 1 is classed as a sloper and the Diablo 2 is classed as a pinch... both holds are hollow backed really well, they're very nice hollow backs!; But they are a little heavy despite this being done, we've seen better and we've seen far worse :)

Texture-wise these guys have a quite crystalline but not painfully so, the slick part of the hold is nice a shiny and slick... the only reason that we were able to grab on the slick part is because of the base shape of the holds... there are a few minor flaws in the texture and one hold seems to want to pack every grip type onto one shape so it feels a little cluttered

Color? Woo they're the same as the images we show; they definitely stand out on the wall that's for sure the color is nice and even and super bright

Sanding is bomber, the slick is slick and the textured part isn't so bad it'll kill you. The base shape of the holds are what allows you to stick onto the slick parts of the holds and that's the problem... they could have been shaped a little thinner to stop this, or the base could have been a little more sloped (actually waaay more sloped) to stop this from happening. That is kind of the point of D/T holds... so you can't actually cheat the move that's set and here they kind of fall down, which is a shame


Very good

Anyone else think that the World Cup logo looks like a benzene ring? Ok, just me then.
It's always hard reviewing just two holds, you always end up using other peoples stuff to flesh out the route some... in this case we rolled with the DRCC big Bleepin Pinch (actually called the Fudgin' Pinch) and Setters Delight as we had them kicking around on the wall... the fact, as you can see from the video, that we were able to hang onto the Diablo 1 hold on the 45 doesn't mean we're recommending either of the holds for this type of angle... overall 30 is about the best for these guys... you could use them on the 45 but it's not going to be fun and it's not really recommended... the only reason we got away with it is because of the route and the way it was set.

These holds if you watch closely have been on the wall for a long time, they stayed primarily in one spot... right in the corner as an arete move and in this position they're superb, in fact we're probably going to put them back there.

Looking at either hold you can and will notice a couple of things:
  • World Cup's slick part is actually pretty slick... but not so slick you can't hold onto it, we were able to use the slick part when the holds were on the roof to balance ourselves and then move off. I didn't use the textured part really
  • The defining line between the slick and the textured is a little but wavy, it's not as well done as some other companies
  • Their hollow backs are lovely to look at
  • They seem to love their thumb catches... that's for sure
It seems that they tried to pack a little too much into the Diablo 1 hold, there's a little of everything and it feels (in my mind) a little cluttered; if the hold were the same but a little simpler in design then they'd be much better... that being said the Diablo 2 is great, it reminds me of a Franklin dog dish we have... I'd be happy with the D2, the D1 needs a little rethink... there should be more of these, different sizes and a little cleaner and then they'd be cooler. The entire point of D/T holds is so you cannot cheat the move in anyway shape of form (setting aside here) and these shapes both fall down as I can use the D/T and then go around using the textured part to complete a move... again this is because of the base shape of the holds... they're just too positive

You won't see many holds with a cool color scheme like the Diablos. I was really impressed when with the red and black color scheme that is very fighting for these holds. Although you can get them molded in whatever color you want, in my opinion the color scheme doesn't get any better than this.

As Noodles pointed out we've had these holds on the wall and they've become a staple hold that always has a home on our wall. We never had it on the 45 until it was time for this review. I though that we could get up the wall but when I had the holds bolted to the wall I realized that they're not as good as I first expected. I changed up the sequence a little and it became manageable. Noodles and Eve both got the sequence, while yours truly found himself on his but more often than not.

Now you've been reading on how we were able to use the slick part of the hold and this would be the major downfall of the shapes. The shape itself is very well thought out and only has one hand placement if you take into account the duo textured nature of the hold. Unfortunately the size of the hold and a creative mind could find ways of getting around that. We needed to use one of the holds as a foot hold and our shoes landed on the slick part of the hold and our feet never broke off the hold. An experienced route setter will be able to force sequences but must be aware that one foot hold too many could alloy the climber to cheat the sequence.

  • Nice hollow back.. not the best not the worst
  • Great colors
  • Good first effort on D/T holds
  • You can cheat around moves because of the shape of the hold
  • Some texture flaws
  • You max out at 30 degrees with these guys

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Yes, logo looks like "a benzene ring", but actually it is more like tetraethylcyclohexane ;))))
All the best!