Saturday, August 28, 2010

Review > DRCC > Bleepin Pinches

DRCC
Now it's no secret that we think the DRCC has some of the best dual texture holds on the market; none what-so-ever... and when we heard that they had a new set of the month (for August) called the "Bleepin' Pinches" we just had to get a set

Now the DRCC runs a pretty good hold of the month club, there are lots of different levels and the holds that we've been posting month to month in the New Stuff section has always been pretty varied! Like we said, soon as we heard about the Bleepin' Pinches Noodles really wanted to get his hands on them as fast as possible!! So lets look at something that is probably going to make you swear :)
The entire range
Small Medium Large


All in all if you get them all you're looking at 15 holds, all of them from the get go given the way they are makes you wonder where they're going to be useful... slabs is the first thought that really pops out at you, mix these with some small bolt on feet and you've got the making of something pretty special... maybe add in the Rail and then you've got the option of some interesting lay back moves. The real question is how far can you actually go with these holds angle wise, you know that the large BP is going to be alright on a 45 degree wall, but the smalls and the mediums don't really have that much of an incut on them so are they going to go?


The short answer is well.... the smalls are pretty well useless at 45, but the mediums are alright, despite the fact that they're really not all the incut themselves; now we wondered why this was and the answer is interesting. The texture on the mediums we noticed was different when we were climbing we put this difference down to us being slightly mental.. it looks the same as the other holds in the range. We decided to see if there was just a different mold or if the mixture was different. Looking at the medium Bleepin Pinches on the DRCC site they mention that the texture has been treated, but what does treated mean? We're guessing that there is either a different mold or that the textured part has been etched after the shapes have cured. Basically we don't know, but there is a difference, you can still climb as long as you like on the holds without shredding skin!


That being said the smalls are an interesting breed to say the least and you have to be pretty careful when selecting what holds to use when you're say pulling off of the floor; Eve likes setting really low starts (because she's small) and she chose probably some of the worst holds for this... remember she has small fingers and lady strength!! The end of it all is the smalls are pretty hard all over the place, if you have small fingers then you're going to have a bunch of fun, if you're like Noodles then you're going to have to try to gently brute strength your way through the moves to better terrain.. and even that didn't work half of the time :)


We actually rolled so much film with these guys we had to be pretty brutal with the editing and yet we still ended up with two climb videos and one walk through. The only other editing jobs that have more footage are the Tour De Blocs and a Climb It review on a set of holds that we've had for a while and will be reviewed when they're released (we have 8 hours of footage right now.... and that's just from one route!!) Hopefully you'll enjoy the films, they're all rated T for teen... there is (to say the least) some swearing but as these are the Bleepin Pinches we decided to leave them in for a change... rather than bleep the language :)


(Don't say we didn't warn you about the language!!)




SUGGESTED USES:





Check it out, we had to make a new symbol!!





Normally we'd actually split the three sets into three sections here, but in this case there's no real reason to do that, all of the sets/holds are pretty well getting the same angle rating except for the small holds that basically become footholds on a 45, we'd only suggest going to 30 degrees on those little buggers, maybe a little less it depends on how you're going to set with the holds.

You've got two options with all three sets.. pinch or edge, well three choices really as there are two sides to every hold so you can get some pretty good longevity out of the sets, just don't expect huge edges or super positive edges because these holds are neither... there are slight incuts and we mean SLIGHT incuts

OVERALL BUILD

  • Number of holds: 15 total across three sets
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt on
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds):
  • Color: Varied for ours
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Excellent
  • Hollow backed: The large is hollow backed, the rest are too small
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): Yes for all of them
  • Texture: Dual tex, slick and shiny and then textured with a nice bite
  • Set size: Small / Medium & Large
  • Versatility: They're dual tex and pinches, but they do make some pretty good edges
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: Yes on the medium and the large
  • Shaper: Brian Emling
The overall build quality is as good as you'd expect, there is really nothing to complain about.. the large Bleepin Pinch could maybe have used a sliding bolt arrangement but it would have made the hold more expensive than it already is, considering the size of the hold it's pretty good value. All three of our sets came in different colors, and as usual they're very vibrant.

All of the holds are rubber backed and have set screw holes, except the small guys as they don't really need them... the texture is pretty DRCC standard across the range with the exception of the medium pinches which have a slightly stronger texture to give you a little more purchase... and to be honest you need it if you're going steep with these guys... overall you can pull till your arms give out on these guys without worrying about your skin. The medium holds have been treated to give them a little bit more bite, what treated means is up to any one's guess as we don't know.

The largest Bleeper is hollow backed in the usual DRCC fashion, that is to say it is pretty damn nice and we'd hate to think what this thing actually weighs without it.


Color always seems to be different with the holds we get from The D, nothing that we have matches so it's always easy to remember which sets of holds are which as long as you can remember what color... or in most cases colors your holds may have come in. The images above show you what we received color wise this time around, we're pretty partial to the black and lime green ones... Eve likes the blue / yellow ones as blues her favorite color


WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Very good

RATING:
Noodles:
We had to make another symbol because we'd never had a set of holds that really needed a "slab" symbol before... least we have it now.

If you read the DRCC stuff under the sets you're always going to smile... lets look at it for shits and giggles:
Large Bleepin Pinch
Put on your filter if you see this hold on your route. There’s just enough incut to assume you’ll pull the move but not enough to know you have it. Flip the hold and you’ll increase or decrease your route by a grade. Keep it G Rated

See? It's actually a pretty good suggestion / description of this hold.

Medium Bleepin Pinches
Making up the medium sized pinches in the Bleepin Pinches series, these holds are a handful (or mouthful). The usable surface is large enough for two to three pads and the surface is treated in a manner to give you a little extra grip.

There is actually a little more grip on these guys and you f***in need it as well

Small Bleepin Pinches
Do you remember swearing for the first time? These holds will help you revisit the feeling. Scared to death of the trouble you’d get in but refreshing at the same time! The pad pinches look small but will make you feel alive

Do I remember swearing for the first time? I'm English, the first word out of my mouth was something pretty foul I'm sure.

Everyone that saw or touched these holds loved them, there haven't been any complaints across the board. It's nice that they tweaked out the medium set to give you a little more purchase than their usual texture, but I'd question this decision as it's the smalls that really need the texture tweak and more bite than the mediums. The mediums we think would go on a 45 degree wall without the extra texture, the small sure as hell don't but they could have maybe have been better if this was done.

As usual we've not even bothered with using set screws in the holes on the holds as with the rubber back we've never had one of the holds from the DRCC spin; mind you we're pretty sure that if you didn't tighten the hold and were lazy when setting you could get one to throw you off of the wall pretty easily. Thankfully even with the temperature changes that occur in the wall so far (fingers crossed) we've not had any problems with spinners

These holds are very well suited to hard boulder problems that's obvious once you touch them for the first time and they'd make for some interesting competition problems, I'd expect to see them at a round of the Tour De Bloc this year... why do I say this? Because one of the gyms on the tour has a set of these already... so I'm looking forward to whatever Dustin cooks up... it's going to be powerful either way :P

These holds are harder than you think; beginners unless you're on a shallow wall or a slab take your time and be careful.. these guys probably had more people on the floor than any other set and we weren't really being totally crazy with them (Except of course putting the big guy on the roof as a finishing move!) Everyone else just beware because you are going to get you f***ing ass kicked by these holds.

Eve:
I can't say that the bleeping are not as bleeping as I expected, although the shape itself (small pinch) is usually bleep inducing. I find most shapes of this collection fairly solid to hang from but with my little fingers I might have an advantage :D! The dual texture, is well done but it's not like they can be much else than a pinch at that size, unless maybe an edge and then you might wish there were a thumb catch but alas.... lol. I love the colours, just like my old room, although I do have to complain in the name of my joints. A pinch that tight is felt to the elbow man but no long term damage and ah! do I ever feel strong when I stick them! Comfy...ish, nice looking, feeling and compact, hell for heavy weights that count on powering through (I am NOT profiling ;) ) all together appreciable for what they are... bleeping pinches !@#$@#!

Chris:
I would guess that some bleeping pinches are more bleeping than others. Aside from the awesome DRCC dual texture and impeccable quality, the holds have lived up to their name in one way or another. As a whole, the holds have a well defined edge between the slick and textured part of the hold and the texture is a good balance between friction and comfort. The texture is pretty smooth but I'm surprised at the amount of friction you can get on the holds. Noodles spoke with Vince at DRCC and he's informed us that the texture of the medium set has been treated. You can tell the difference between the textures, but either way I found that there was plenty of gripping power to the holds.

So what makes one more bleeping than the other...well for me it has to do with the size of the holds. The small set has more incut holds than the mediums but matching these munchkins is a challenge unless you have tiny fingers like Eve. The medium sets where very comfortable to grip but a pain to stick since there are more slopey holds incorporated in the set.

I would say that these sets are geared towards stronger climbers and could be used for system training. Now I say could because I thought at first that we could get some training done on the holds but after setting a few problems with them I realized that I wouldn't be able to campus these holds up a shallow inclined wall but someone who's training for V10 or competitions may tell you something different. As for my final words: These sets are worthy of the word BLEEP!

Dustin Curtis - Head Routesetter True North Toronto:
So as usual DRCC makes the dopest, most pimp dual tex on the planet and of course, these pinches don't disappoint. These new additions to the DRCC line are a perfect compliment to the Force Edges series. Simple and purposeful, these pinches are super comfortable and with the ultra slick dual texture they offer a wide range of setting possibilities.

I think the best thing about this set has to be the range of pinches you get. From giant long tufa, to thin and tiny. Especially setting for youth I found the thinner pinches to be most useful. Too often pinches are too big and youth get taught to only crimp or open hand but with the thinner and smaller pinches in this set you can actually set pinch problems for younger youth and have them actually learn to pinch. An incredibly versatile set and an excellent addition to the DRCC line.

Dora:
What can one say about the bleeping holds other than that they're totally awesome for small hands and hence, no censoring is required. However if you have regular size hands, I could foresee there being a bleeping problem.

The design of the holds is really good. The dual texture makes them visually appealing and it feels nice on the palm of your hand, because even with small fingers, the most finger surface you're getting on the smaller holds is around 1.5 phalanges. What I particularly liked about these holds is that they were perfect as pinches and as crimps. The fact that the textured part goes down on the curve of the hold is also really nice, because it gives your fingers extra stability and grip on the holds!

I really liked the holds mainly because they feel good, the texture is good enough that your fingers stick to it, but not so abrasive that it rips off your skin. which is great for when you first use them, i'm looking forward to seeing what happens after some extensive use, if the textured part was not abrasive and grippy enough... and becomes very smooth very fast - then they'll be bleeping holds for all - regardless of hand size...

PROS:
  • Beautiful dual texture
  • Nice range of sizes, you can just about get a full roped route of the range (just)
  • Pinches or different edges just rotate
CONS:
  • Brian the shaper may have been at the soft back mix a little too much
  • The smalls are really made for people with smaller fingers
  • These holds are slightly limited on angle usage as they are pretty hard holds to stick



2 comments:

Vincent said...

besides the fact that the holds are SWEET! ... entertaining vids! :-)

thinayr said...

These look sick! I need some more pinches for my wall and these seem to be the ticket.

After DRCC it's hard to go back to shopping the 'old school' companies, these holds are works of art...

Good review guys & gals.