Monday, November 19, 2012

Review > Redpoint Holds > Coefficient / Currency Pinches and Conductors

Originally we were going to run three reviews for these holds, do them one at a time but as we got around to setting we decided to get them all done at the same time, we only filmed one route of myself and Chris climbing and we were going to film some more on different problems but you'll see why we had to stop that for a little while :)

Redpoint is a new company that started this year in Canada and it's always good to see new companies especially Canadian ones come into the market and begin the journey of making climbing holds, and Redpoint although new are doing it the hard way, they actually mix and pour their holds unlike some other people that have joined into the fray this year... so a new Canadian company and three sets of holds... lets roll!!


So as there are three sets we'll talk about them specifically and then about the route that was set... but first... why didn't we film some more?


Noodles... kind of messed himself up a little bit:













He hit the mats a little funny when climbing and kind of took himself out for a little bit; the left hand photo is 30 minutes after it happened and the right photo is the next day; nothing was broken it's all torn up but that's our excuse for not filming more for this review. It also has to be pointed out that he wasn't on the Redpoint route when he did this :)

So excuses aside lets talk holds:

Conductors 
Why ruin perfectly good holds is the main comment that we've received on these holds... indeed why? There's no need to add those thumb catches to the holds because they don't need them they're awesome without; maybe there's a need for Redpoint to distinguish themselves from every other hold maker out there but we think not, good holds will sell... maybe of the thumb catches were perfectly placed we could see them being beneficial to the shape, but when the shape is perfect why add to it? As a simple set of edges / large crimps these holds are awesome, well worth a look


Currency Pinches
Five of some of the best sized pinches out there, these holds are so versatile if you can stop yourself from skipping from a pinch to just using the slopers on them, realistically these holds should be half the depth (something that should be added like Teknik did with the shallow pours of their holds) for something really interesting to climb on unless you're a beginner... but hey as everyone has to start one way or another then these are pinches that you can haul on when the going gets steep... smaller options would be super nice to see

Coefficient
Taking a note from the Europeans (Redpoint didn't actually know that closed cell volumes have been around for a while) this is a closed cell volume. Close Cell basically means theres a back on the hold but the inside is hollow :) CC means that holds can be bigger but basically weigh nothing, we tip out hat to these guys on this as we don't think that there's anyone else doing this right now on the North American market... so awesome. There are so many ways you can use this hold it's just plain retarded... look for it in the X-Cult Volume review coming up next, it's the start hold

For it's size it's light, not as light as it could be but for a first attempt it's a bloody good attempt and very well pulled off

So what did we do with these holds? Well before Noodles killed his season we set a few super burly routes using these holds to see where we could go with the holds; they're all pretty happy on the steep walls that's for sure and then because we wanted a bunch of traffic on the holds to see how they fared we made a nice simple (if jumpy, if you're short) V2 route for the climbers at the gym... this route has been getting a lot of traffic from the low to intermediate climbers it's kind of surprising. As usual we've been putting the thumb screws onto people that have been climbing it to see what they think of the holds and it's a mixed bag of comments for sure! Some people were attracted by the large start hold and others saw the metal hardware in the upper holds and were kind of curious... no one except the low low end climbers attempting the route have anything negative to say about the holds so that's a good thing to hear from the punters that's for sure




SUGGESTED USES CONDUCTORS:









45 is about as far as we'd suggest going with these guys, although they're incut they're not that incut so you'll end up loosing their edge quite quickly... that's not saying that they couldn't go steeper, they probably could but it'll be a super hard pull for sure

OVERALL BUILD CONDUCTORS:
  • Number of holds: 2
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): $20 / 2 = $10 per hold
  • Color: Ours are purple and yellow
  • Bolt placement: Bang in the middle
  • Sanding: Good
  • Hollow backed: No
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Grippy but not crazy
  • Set size: Medium
  • Versatility: Pretty good
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Nikita Taylor
  • Weight:TBC
When we hear of a new company we're always wary of what they're producing, but we always like to see them for sure!!

The Conductors are a little strange because of their little metal rings that act as thumb catches which definitely catch a climbers eye; its different and it does set them apart, but in our mind it kind of sets them back a little, it's a great idea but it's also a little strange... if you use the holds purely as left and right hand bias then the thumb catches are in the right places, if you switch them them they're kind of useless (the rings not the holds) and that's their downfall and greatness all in one.

The holds if you loose the rings (and that's a new set of holds in the making we're sure) then you have some great great simple holds that are awesome :)

If you look at the shapes they they're well shaped and they're clean, they have enough bite without the slightly sharp edges becoming a factor. When you look at colors you find an interesting fact; our holds are purple and yellow but it seems that the main color of the holds is purple and the yellow is added before pouring the main color... what does this mean? It means that the porous texture is slightly filled in with the color which means some parts of the holds don't grip the same way as others... it's a tricky thing that's for sure because if the holds were bigger then it could be a problem, or if there is too much paint then the texture could be compromised

Overall build is these are some solid holds, we've cranked them up super tight on a slightly uneven wall and they've handed the problems with the wall well and they've also handled the sheer amount of climbers that have hit the routes we've set really well. Super good job, the rings is something of a personal taste

SUGGESTED USES CURRENCY PINCHES:






When it comes to pinches, or slopers we're connoisseurs for sure :) We've seen some great pinches and we've climbed on some so so pinches, these guys are awesome, they're versatile and some great shapes which is a surprise from a new company. Redpoint are on the ball with these holds, the ones that are incut will go super steep, if you place the slightly less incut guys in-between then you can make some really interesting problems that'll keep you happy for a while; if you take the holds onto slightly overhanging walls then you can use the sloped parts of the holds to mix it up a little and that's the great part of their holds is their versatility.

OVERALL BUILD CURRENCY PINCHES:
  • Number of holds: 5
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): $55 / 5 = $11 per hold
  • Color: Pink and blue
  • Bolt placement: Middle
  • Sanding: Great
  • Hollow backed: No
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Grippy but not crazy
  • Set size: Medium
  • Versatility: Great
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Nikita Taylor
  • Weight:TBC
Woo hoo; These holds are flat out awesome, versatile and good for a great amount of angles!! When you look at the shapes then you can't complain, the pinches are a good width, the angles of the incuts and the radii of the slopes means you have bang for your buck.

When you look at the colors (apart from what we mentioned above) you can see well drilled square bolt holes and nice raised logos denoting the holds manufacturer. The sanding is good and the texture is the same as what we mentioned before, the shapes is where it's at that's for sure. When you hold the holds in your hands they have a good weight to them and they do feel solid and have a good heft to them.

For a simple set of holds they are comfy simple shapes that are great from a new company

SUGGESTED USES COEFFICIENT:








Closed Cell volumes aren't a new thing for sure, they've been done but in North America its not something you see at all! So Redpoint are bringing them to this market is awesome for sure. We've used this hold in a few routes and we've had is as part of an X-Cult volume route that we've been working on and a lot of people have been working on... it's had a LOT of traffic and even though its had so many hands on it it has so many ways to grab it that it's not funny. At the price for the size of hold then it's pretty interesting and at a size that's good for a home wall.

OVERALL BUILD
  • Number of holds: 1
  • Type (Bolt / Screw Ons): Bolt
  • Price per hold (set price divided by number of holds): $55
  • Color: Orange and green
  • Bolt placement: Bang in the middle
  • Sanding: Hard to tell as it's a closed cell, it sits flat on the wall
  • Hollow backed: Yes, but it has a filler inside
  • Soft back (Rubber backed): No
  • Texture: Grippy but not crazy
  • Set size: XL
  • Versatility: Great
  • Pre-drilled screw holes: No
  • Shaper: Nikita Taylor
  • Weight:TBC
Something new hitting the market.. awesome! Again the colors are vibrant (see above for how we think that they did it) and the texture is spot on. When you look at the hold it does look a little same ol same ol all the way around but the devil is in the details, a 90 degree rotation means that the start / move (wherever you have placed the hold) gets easier or harder depending upon where you set it :)

The shape is simple and clean, it would have been nice to see a little more variation from the four sides of the hold rather than similar versions of the same theme for sure but it is nice and smooth and fun to grab without any pain, it's size means it's awesome for home wall owners because of it's size, it's not a wall hogger in any sense of the term

Bolt hole is nice and right into the middle and the hold despite its size and closed cell nature sits really well on the wall, a surprise as we figured a new company would have a little trouble with this at the start, it seems Redpoint have done their home work.

Problems? Well it'd be nice to see set screw holes in this monster because it might spin on you, adding it will be a tricky but welcome addition
  
WHAT ARE THEY MADE FROM:
Urethane

PACKING / SHIPPING:
Awesome

RATING:
Noodles:
A new company is always something that's good to see, a Canadian company is even better to see that's for sure; we've been doing this for a while and there's not been as many company's coming, apart from the people from this year. We were sent three sets to have a look at and originally the plan was to run three different reviews, unfortunately I kind of took myself out pretty well until March or April of 2013 :( Yeah that's six months from now, so we wrapped them up into one review; and lets face it so far if you've read above then you know that theres some good and some meh in the above. So lets cut it down to the bone, I'll talk about the sets one by one:

Conductors:
I'm a little in the bag on these, I like the thumb pinches but hate that they are one sided (yeah its an up and a down) I'd almost want there to be two thumb catches to make them useful for both hands rather than rely upon a setter to not get it wrong... there's a problem with this, it'll drive the price up but right now they're pretty expensive as it is :(

For shapes, they're awesome, they should come with and without the pinches. I like the shapes for sure, if you put them the right way around then they're great, I'd like the pinches to be a little bit more angled so the climber is forced to use them... mind you if the edges weren't so incut the the climber would have to use them so it's a little of column a and a little of column b

Currency Pinches:
Awesome, just awesome. I love these holds, there are so many ways to use the holds it means that they're versatile on a variety of angles and that's what make them pretty damn good. They're not huge, they're nothing that take up huge amounts of wall space but they're something that are pretty good most places

Com-fort-able is the way to look at these holds, ver-sa-tile is another, for a new company it's a home run

Coefficient:
New tech in the volume field is always welcome. Considering it's size and that Redpoint are a new company they've done a pretty stand up job on this guy, sure it's not the lightest volume out there but the price is right and it's done some heavy duty at Shakti since we've had it and it's been bomber.

I'd liked to have seen more variance in the sides of the volume to make it a little more versatile than it is because it is a little samey when you rotate it but like I said for a first pass it's something for home wall owners that will add variation to their wall without breaking the bank

Overall:
Great first run! The material they're running seems good and strong, all of the holds are well made with no defects (and they came across Canada without a scratch) and we've seen no problems. The only thing is the addition of colors before the holds are made, it does take out the texture a little and could cause problems if there is too much color added and as usual set screw holes... the pinches are probably the only holds that don't need them, the edges probably could do with them and the big guy, well he probably wants one at some point.

I'm impressed, the only company that's come onto the market that has made a better impression is Urban Plastix this year and they don't pour their own holds... so to be pouring and having a quality like this is fucking impressive and i'm sure it's a lot of work. Great, no, fucking amazing work, keep it up

Guillaume:
So, Canadian Brand climbing holds is a good news, a little competition to Teknik seems
like a good thing to me. Teknik has been making some of the best shapes available on the
market for a while now. I welcomed the news of a new Canadian brand. But when you
compete against one of the best brand available on the face of the planet, there are some
expectations... do they meet up?

Climbing on Redpoint Holds is a fun thing. Shapes are fun to hold onto, texture is smooth
enough yet not too rough. Holding onto them feels good.

For the crimpers / edges, there is a nice and bomber thumb catch where you would want it. The pinches are quite interesting since they are a big chunk that you could use in the 4 sides of the hold. The setters had made an easy problem with them and I don’t think they could have made it harder. In my opinion, both sets of holds should be aimed toward beginners to intermediate climbers. The more advanced ones will find them boring. The presence of this MAJOR thumb catch make them unapealing to me. You have to know that climbing outside is my life; so when I climb/set inside I want to have a similar feeling. So this minor tweak in the holds isn’t a pro for me.

General opinion:
Good, but lose that thumb catch that is as good has the hold ! Pinch would be cool for more
advanced climber in a steeper angle.

PROS:
  • New company means new shapes
  • Close Cell Volumes which is new to the North American market
  • Good shapes
CONS:
  • Price

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