Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Review > Beastmaker 1000 & 2000

Soo with Noodles having a douched ankle and with a slight depression that's been and gone from not climbing; we're back on the go and we're back with a doozy of a review. Not with just a single review but a double header that will be updated as we go, this is a mix of Gui and Noodles, Noodles is being the "normal" climber and Gui being the "Strong" climber in this review, confused... you should be... basically Gui's comments are like a full on review of the 2000 boards, the main body of the text is about both and Noodles comments are about the 1000!

So lets begin and go from there ok?

There was a thought running around the CHR camp for many years that the Moon board was the hardest thing on the planet, and it was and in some cases still is but there are new boards hitting the market all of the time that could take the crown. Both are from the same company that's based in the UK; and that company is called Beastmaker; yes Beastmaker. The Maker Of Beasts, it seems like a big claim just from the name doesn't it? Just a little... :)

If you're looking to "train" then there's the 1000, if you want to "TRAIN" then there's the 2000... do you know what we mean? NO!! HA, read on... both of these boards are going to get you strong and they're going to test you in ways you didn't know existed; you will be frustrated, you will cry a little but you will get stronger that's for sure... oops it seems we started the review before the review really started.... let's start again:

As we amble along this path that hopefully is an informative and amusing review lets look at what we're talking about:

Beastmaker 1000:
Beastmaker 2000:

As you can see the difference between the 1000 series and the 2000 series is quite a leap, the 1000 has jugs the 2000 has evil evil slopers and MONOS!! Yeah, mono's on a fingerboard, when you see this you have to wonder if that's a good thing! Now, we're smart, we gave the 2000 to Gui because he's the stronger climbing and we kept the 1000, attached it to our Blank Slate and went to work :P

Now, before we get into the meat of the review people may be turned off of this review because they see European or more specifically the UK which of course means they have to order from there, well here's some great news... Revolution in North America stock these boards! So keep reading now that you know you can get one of these boards and not have to pay through the ass with import fees and huge shipping costs; we got that clear? Good!

Now wood is an awesome medium for training, look at Metolius they've been making wooden boards for years, Crusher make wooden hang boards and campus rungs, in general,  are made from wood. So it seems that wood is a great for training and it's the way to go, now wood is more of an artisan kind of medium to work with, wood is not easy to work with but lets face it if someone is going to make a board then wood is something that's more sustainable and better for the environment than urethane.

But there's a downside (from the makers point of view) is it takes a little longer to make; so it's going to be a little more expensive than a normal board and at 75GBP it's not cheap! But you get what you pay for :)

These things take time to make, sure they're CNC'd the boards but they're all finished by hand so if you look at a  PU board that just gets molded (once), poured, sanded and shipped off, you know there is more work going into these boards... if you want to know what we're talking about then look at Beastmakers process:
Shape roughed out on C&C
Sustainable Tulipwood

Outside sanded smooth
Each pocket is hand sanded

Screw holes are drilled
Logo is branded

That's six steps, SIX to give you the climber what is basically a piece of art that's handmade!! Think of a handmade car, it seems reasonable to pay god knows how much for that? Then the price for a hang board that's handmade to this degree is a one off is pretty reasonable right? Well that depends upon if it's the hang board that you want to use for years and years, and that's kind of the nut of the problem. Look at Noodles, he can talk about boards for hours and why what is good on boards and what is bad, he can go through all of his boards and tell you what is great on all of them. Now remember it's a personal preference and to see him and Chris argue about this is brilliant. WHAT makes this board different? Lets look at them closely:

Beastmaker 1000:
The Beastmaker 1000 hang board has been ergonomically designed for the hands of those who are a bit newer to climbing and training but want to progress quickly. This board is suitable for those climbing from 5a all the way to 7c or even further if you fancy taking on some one armed deadhangs. The dirty 45 degree slopers and monos which are apparent on the Beastmaker 2000 have been removed to make way for some jugs and more variation of the pocket depths. The Beastmaker 1000 is made from wood with a very fine texture which is very kind to your skin and the holds have been radiused to avoid tweaking any fingers. The holds include:

  • 2 Jugs
  • 35 Degree Slopers
  • 20 Degree Sloper
  • 1 Very Deep 4 Finger Pocket
  • 2 Deep 4 Finger Pockets
  • 2 Deep 3 Finger Pockets
  • 2 Deep 2 Finger Pockets
  • 2 Medium 4 Finger Pockets
  • 2 Small 4 Finger Pockets (10mm)
  • 2 Medium 2 Finger Pockets
  • 2 Medium 3 Finger Pockets

Beastmaker 2000:
The Beastmaker 2000 is not a hangb oard for beginners, it has been designed with the input of some of the best climbers the UK has to offer. The result is a hang board which tests the limits of finger strength and will help you towards your high grade goals. The beastmaker 2000 comprises of many holds which will let you specifically target your weaknesses and get stronger, comfortably, in all of the grip types. Every hold on the board has been well thought out and radiused in order to keep the chances of tweaking to a minimum and the wooden texture wont ruin your skin whilst being grippy enough not to be frustrating. The Beastmaker 2000 comprises of:
Wood is far superior to resin in terms of its natural properties of grip, porosity and texture, Wood is far and away the best training material currently available for finger strength, and the good news is it grows on trees!

  • 45 Degree Slopers
  • 35 Degree Slopers
  • 20 Degree Slopers
  • Medium 3 Finger Socket
  • Smaller 3 Finger Socket
  • Mouth Jug
  • Big, Little & Incut Rungs
  • Back 2 Pockets
  • Big, Little & Sloping 2 Finger Pockets
  • Sloping and 1 Pad Monos
It's pretty clear that the 2000 is waaaay harder than the 1000, how much harder? Now if you take a normal hang board and say call it a 1 on the 1-10 scale of hard; 1 being easiest and 10 being the hardest on the scale.... a normal board is 1, in this example a Metolius 3D Simulator. A medium board is the DRCC 5.14, a really hard board is a Moon Board or a Beastmaker 1000 would be a 10. The 2000 is 15 on the scale! Why? Because of whats on the boards, the 1000 wouldn't seem to be that hard, but it is, it's the slopers and the edges... they're harder than you think, the pockets are wonderful; deep forgiving buggers but the edges man they will kick you ass. Because they're deep, but when you get to doing one of their workouts and you have to repeatedly hang on something that's a 1/4 inch then you know it's either going to make you strong or will kill you!! The 2000 takes the 1000, removes the jugs and adds even more slopers that are even harder to hang; now we all know that slopers are the best way to train but when it's hard to hang the 1000's easy slopers imagine what the hard 2000 slopers are like... yeah, it's that hard!

Now... training is a personal thing; some people like the endless repetition of running on a treadmill, some people want to climb on the smallest crimps.. when it comes to climbing (especially your personal climbing) you need to adapt it to you in that moment and what you want/need to achieve. Sit back and take a look at what you want to get out of what you're doing, be focused, video yourself climbing, be honest and know what you want. It's probably why Noodles likes so many boards, because he wants a little of all of them to make the "board to end all boards" but there's a problem with that concept!! What he would make now (although being a huge seller because it's totally a mid range climbers board) wouldn't be what he specifically needs once he's reached his goal! This is where the Beastmakers excel and fail at both the same time, sure people will disagree on this point until the dogs come home, but as usual you'll get the CHR version of the debate (you can leave comments)

What Beastmaker has done is make two wonderful, ecologically friendly boards, what they've also done is make one hard and one easy. Where they have failed is they may have made one a little too hard and the other not easy enough. The 1000 isn't an introduction to hangboard training kind of board  (But it's meant to be) and the 2000 when we unpacked it wasn't something that we'd ever hang or train on, it's just hard looking (it is pretty as all hell, they both are) Now why are we saying this? Noodles runs V4-V7 (depending upon gravity on the day) and Bob has upped his game to the V4-5 range, neither of them can finish the easiest program on the 1000 board. Gui who is a solid as hell V8 climber indoors (harder, waaaay harder outside) has been known to curse the 2000 and he's been working super hard on it. Maybe its the program that we're following from their app, maybe we're just weak, maybe European climbers are just stronger, maybe, maybe, maybe... it's personal taste. Malcolm Smith likes them if we recall, but he's a training (sadistic) monster so could we really rely upon what he likes?
http://youtu.be/7d5RFIcXy3wHangboards are like climbing shoes, you use them up over a period of time.... you replace them, they fit and then they don't, time to buy a new pair. (BTW: a hangboard is for life, you won't wear them out!! (It's a metaphor)) You buy a hangboard to get you stronger, to complete goals, but it's also like a hand bag or a pair of sneakers... it needs to fit or match right! And at some point you'll have different goals and you'll need to switch up a little :(

And this is where our point becomes more clear, and this whole point is related to the iPhone app more than the boards! When you equate grades, and you "grade" a work out on a board it seems a little pointless, unless theres a money back guarentee involved thats states "you will be thing strong you can climb x-grade after 6 weeks" then it comes down to personal goals and your physicology that makes you the climber and the person that can train one way or another. A board doesn't make the climber (like some people think) it's the strategy you use to implement the tool into your training, so when you get the board(s) and you open the app then take them with a grain of salt because the overall goal is to get stronger and to not get injured. Why do we say this? Read Noodles and Gui's comments as they're the ones with the most to gain from the boards. Noodles because he's very limited in his climbing right now but wants to stay strong and Gui because he has some V14 projects that are about to go down and he needs to be strong for them. Neither of them want to get injured training (ironic considering Noodles injury lol) and they want to be strong; with the boards (the app is sold separately) they both got the app and went to work, focused in what they wanted and with a review to a) train to get stronger and b) to review the boards at the same time; what would normally be a win win because a eh? eh? situation. Both of these guys hangboard train a lot, they've done it, they know how to train and yet they both got shut down on easier workouts than they can actually climb, in a couple of cases 3 or 4 grades less than what they actually flash problems at. Now, there is always a period of time where a board is new and a climber takes time to get used to it, you need to get used to it's nook and crannies, figure out it's texture and just get used to training on it! This has been a fairly long time for the Beastmakers but this could be because of us training with the app and not adapting it to our needs right away... don't get us wrong the app is bloody amazing but if you can't hang 1/4 inch chisel edges then don't!! Start easier and work into it.

This is something we know as we've been doing it for years, its not something people inherently understand from the get go, they climb, they plateau they get a hangboard and instantly think they will get stronger... and this is the problem with the Beastmaker app as a whole, it's a little too much (especially for the 1000 board) and for someone "starting out", that person will get injured for sure because the easiest workout will just kill you. IF you try it, know that a suggested hold is too much move to a bigger one, it's something that's not stated but if you actually use the app as a guideline then you'll be ok... work into the routine over a period of time rather than jumping in with both feet (or hands in this case) and work towards completing the program sensibly rather than fucking yourself up and being injured when you should be getting stronger.

Now that being said neither of these boards will hide your weakness', they're not designed that way... they're like your Dad wearing your mothers Sunday best and screaming at you "Man up dude"... yes they are THAT in your face. If you can't hang on some of the holds then it's because you're weak and you need to focus on that weakness, that's what training is about... getting stronger without getting hurt. Speaking with the Beastmaker guys (which are a refreshing bunch btw) they make no qualms what-so-ever about making a functioning board that shows you where you need to work harder; it's meant to be a tool that's functional, it just ended up looking great as well :)

Hanging from :) The 1000 is a board that will get you strong overtime; hangboard training isn't an overnight wonder cure for your climbing ails. It's well designed with the beginner in mind as long as you train responsibly and look at what you need to improve upon, well this is the board that will show you where you're weak for sure. Tie the board in with the app and then you've got a solution to your climbing needs when you can't get to the gym...

Again hanging from... but the 2000 is geared towards someone that's trained and is serious. World Cup climbers can and often do rip this thing apart doing one arm hangs and pull ups on this thing. The mono's well the reason why there are monos on the board is because when you're at the top of your game you need to train this grip one way or another, it's been pointed out that most people hurt themselves on crimps and not on monos (and our above comments are a little bit scaremongering) and we guess that they were... again if you know what you're doing then you're fine.

Both boards are well built, really well built. You can tell its been hewn from a block of wood and you can see where the finishing has been done... Hand finishing is only so good as the person that's holding (in this case a Dremel) so there will be some flaws; this is mainly seen in the pockets, the deep finger pockets on both boards, they're not as smooth as expected. Also because Chris works with wood all day long, he wanted the slopers to have been finished a little better with some finer grain sandpaper. But here is the good thing, you can do what you want with the board, you can add or take away texture as you want!! But remember you cant add where you took away

The esthetics of the boards are amazing, compact, to the point.. their choice of wood makes sense and only gets better as you use it; skin sweat without chalk makes a difference, you can see what people hang on to because it's darker from hands.

There aren't color (varnish) options so what you see is what you get

The overall build of both bards is superb, no if's no buts. Some of the pockets could be a little smoother as they're a little rough inside (on our boards) but over time you get used to this and it doesn't really rag out your skin that much, these things really are well made and will fit in a high end apartment with no problems.

From the branded logo to the well thought out areas to grab there really isn't any complaint on either board except for the small chiseled edges on the 1000, they really should be a little bigger

When you look at the differences between the boards all of the great workmanship is still there, if anything it's probably harder to make the 2000 rather than the 1000 board because the slopers have to be exactly the same on either side... sanding them must be a pain in the ass

The boards are very well laid out and allow you to train all the grip groups that you need to get stronger... the 1000 will take you well into double digit climbing grades and the 2000 will take your deeper into those numbers. When it comes down to nuts and bolts both boards are probably what you should have to train upon... wood wins, again!! The texture is enough to train on for hours and walk away without wondering if you'll get a flapper and it really makes a difference in your training, the difference between PU and wood is real and it has to be felt to be understood

One thing that has to be mentioned... and it's a big one is these boards are V1.0, they went straight from beta to production. How amazing is that? That's mental!! This board has sold a lot of units so Beastmaker is doing something very very right straight out of beta... crazy!!

OVERALL : iPhone App
For where the app is an amazing addition to your training there are some flaws, it doesn't really rotate at all well on an iPhone when it's horizontal, so you're suck with your phone being vertically placed all the time to really see the information. Kind of a bummer as we can mount it to the Blank Slate and not have to look down at it.

You can make your own custom workouts which is awesome, and something we suggest you do after you try even the basic programs... Beastmaker claim you will see strength gains after 6 weeks and you will if you're someone like Gui and does the basic programs on the 1000 and works up. When it comes to the 2000, well you're just in for brutality and you kind of asked for it. We made our own programs after failing for weeks on the 1000 and the Font 5a program, or you can just switch it up to bigger holds when you know you can't do it... again for us the app is a guideline for training and not the be all and end all in anyway, use common sense especially if you're new to training on boards.

It's a known fact that there are some issues with the app and these are being addressed and the app will be updated later this year (around May), some of them that have been mentioned (a little too much in this review)


For a board, it comes in it's own box and is amazing

Both boards, well, they look amazing, You could use them in a really nice home, place them correctly and your golf buddy's would never realize you were a climber before you sold your soul to the "firm" you work for :)

I have a problem though, and it's a tough one. I don't like the Moon board, I love the wood boards from Metoilus, I like the resin boards from Metolius, I like the pinches on the Iron Palm, I love the pinches on the DRCC 5.14, the love the Bendcrete board that I cannot find anymore (I mean it's in the UK but I cannot find it at all there).... I love the really small scooped rails of the Moon board... every board i've owned has been a lover of some kind. And I mean a lover not a lover, why? Because training on a board if thats the only thing you can do between the gym and rope, well it's a special thing... not quite the same as naming a car but you know what I mean (I hope)

Hanging on a board is a special thing, it's not climbing but we equate it as such... "dude did you climb today?" and the fact you just did a hang board work out is just fine.

Where do I stand on the boards?

Well would you like me to lie? Would you like me to spin you a line of bs, or just tell you..

I don't particularly like either of them! I have a lot of boards, and I mean a lot and I've made programs for people for a while. I've trained on boards for nearly 15 years, my first boards (and still one of the best is an old Bendcrete board), I have had boards everywhere I've lived, I move in and the board goes up... the unpacking can wait :) When I say I don't particularly like either board I can say this without a problem about the 2000; why in hells name would you put a mono on a hangboard?? Monos are the easiest way to get injured and you need to know what you're doing or be a little mental to train on them. That's of course my opinion, some people just like monos, I hate them... and then there's the slopes; they're hard and I love slopes. If I trained on this board I'd have to pad the floor behind me because it's a matter of time before I ping off the board and go flying in some direction :)

The 1000, well, this is an interesting one. I've used it for a good long while (since November in fact) and I've followed the program on the iPhone, had my ass kicked. Actually maybe it's not the board that's the problem it's their training app and the fact that whoever did the workout has fingers of steel... it's like a professional routesetter that climbs V14 trying to set a V0, they'll chuck holds up on the wall and go climb it.... "that feels like a V0 to me".... yeah, but they're a bloody V14 climber, it doesn't equate too well!!

So I fucking hated the board for the longest time, I was injured (ankle) and was depressed about that and there was a couple of months where I'm surprised it's still in my living room where it should have been made into fire wood.... sounds harsh right? When I'm getting my ass kicked so hard week on week, am depressed about the ankle... and when my only means of training is a board and I'm being killed a few times a week on it (and not in a good way) it will make you kind of crazy. Once I looked at why I was getting my ass kicked all the time and switched some holds from what they suggested to something easier and began getting through the workouts and then started adding in some of what they suggested; well then it started to make sense. It took time. If you look at me reviewing a board normally I make up own program because most boards don't come with a guide, this time I was "great, an out of the box training board with an app, kickass" and then on the easiest program I get my ass kicked then you kinda know something was/is up! Once the red mist went away then it was fine.

A board is like a new relationship, you're not going to buy it flowers or shave intricate patterns into your body hair for it, but you will leave a lot of sweat (and tears) on it's surface.... you will spend quality time hanging in a door frame staring ahead, bearing down all of your weight onto what is there for seconds at a time... all in the hopes of getting stronger...

So where do I stand? Or hang for that matter?

The Beastmaker isn't my favorite board but it's growing on me more and more. I like the esthetics of it, I like it's look... I kind of wish it was bent like the Simulator boards and canted forward a little, I find that's easier on my elbows. You can see my sweat is staining the wood and training on it is personalizing it more and more as I work through the programs... am I stronger from it? Well that's hard to tell because even though I'm on the wall more and more my ankle doesn't allow me to move like I used to because of the brace I'm wearing to stop anything happening to it (more scans and surgery to come)....

Would I recommend this board to a beginner that's getting into training? Well yes and no... yes because the board is great but I'd take the app with a grain of salt, if you can do it you can do it but work into it first.

Have I become a beast? It's hard to tell for sure, with my ankle being on and off; I certainly feel stronger but I can't tell as I'm not going super hard on the wall because I don't want to fall off and re-twist my ankle when I've spent thousands of dollars fixing it :) One thing I can say and it should be said out loud is that both Gui and I had the red mist descend upon us and we really got quite negative on this review, so much so that we do focus on the app a little more than we should have. If you take the review of our "experience" as well as a review then it makes much more sense in a global sense!! Both boards are good... how good? Well although the 1000 is growing on me more and more and is probably not going to leave my door frame anytime soon (and the 2000 is a few years off for me) I would recommend them to people, why? Well they're wooden and they're awesome... got wood? Lol


So here we are, I finally got my hand on the famous "Beast". As a lover of the Moon board I was dreaming about getting my hands on that cure to modern climber flaws. The so the best Beast is supposed to make you become a beast, the least… The first time I had my handa on it, I swear a little  tear came out of my eye. Did I like it yes and no. Why? Too many answers for A line. Here it is.

The training:
Beastmaker makes an app they sell online, giving you a guideline on how to train for your next project. They separate each training between the two boards and grades. Here is my first dislike about the board and the apps. How can someone put a grade on a board? In the first place it is so hard to grade a boulder outside, it is even harder to grade an inside boulder problem, so grading a training board? How did they do that? So do I like to train on it or not? The masochist who loves to train 25 hours a week in me likes it, A LOT ! But dude, it’s just a board, it’s nowhere near like climbing. Climbing is all about dynamic movement (not as in dynos). You are barelly hanging on a same holds for more than 7 to 10 seconds. But man, it’s the Beastmaker, what are you talking about?!?!

So I inherited one of the 2000 series, cause I’m supposed to be an expert. I tought "Hey I’M going to use this for my project outside for the spring (think 5.14a/b, three bolts, ascent with no bolts, highball!" I felt pretty confident about my training abilities, like I told you, I’m a masochist when come down to training!

When I started to use it I was in my strength phase of my training. Which usually means for me a super intensive, but short stimulus. So when I looked at the suggested training for an 8a+ climber I thought, yeah I can hold those holds, but not 7 times 7 seconds with 3 seconds rest. So, first time I did the 7b training, I was absolutely unable to finish half of it. Was I weak? I don't have the best endurance for a climber like some people, but power is the name of my game. Dude my ego dropped down! In the beginning I really wanted to follow their training guideline and forget about everything I know (I’m a professional trainer who only train rock climbers). But after a couple of weeks, I realized one thing. Their training is no where near what I consider a good hangboard training regime. This is when things got better! I started to follow the program only using the suggested type of handhold, not the time and used my personal time frame of what I consider to be more accurate towards climbing. Things got better, way better. I could pull the 8a program. So after a couple of weeks of adjusting the times I became capable of doing their suggested training for 8a/8a+ climbers. If I wasn’t a professional trainer would I have done this? Probably, but I'd have most certainly injured myself and this where the beast hit me. Suddenly the beast was no more the absolute best.

POV has a personal trainer:
So the climber in me liked the challenge, what about the personal trainer? It's hard to seperate two parts of your own personality. Well I like to spilt myself into three distinct personalities when it boils down to climbing, the head routesetter, the trainer and the climber... it’s freakin hard. 
The personal trainer liked the board itself. It’s ergonomic, skin friendly (altough I founded some edges to be quite sharp ), challeging enough tough but not impossible and frankly quite sexy (makes you want to climb on it)
But the big question is, would I use this with my clients? And the answer is super simple, NO ! That’s for multiple reasons. One, why would some one pay me to make me look at them on something that another person did? Second reason, climbing is all about movement. Yes finger strength is important, but well over-rated in my own opinion. I have a good friend, who is WICKED SUPER STRONG, think of a dark horse V15 climber. So this guy trains for climbing but not that much, think 17 hours a week, 14 climbing and 3 training. He’s always telling me that the moment you’re able to fully crimp a half pad crimper, you don’t need to go past this. The truth of the matter is the moment I started doing this, I felt less weak and never hurt a finger again. Did I climb weaker? Absolutely not! Lastly, like I told you before, climbing is all about dynamism in movement, is hanging a dynamic movement, nope! Does it help climbing yes; if combined with something else that makes you move. 

Then, there are the infamous 45 slopers, they are absolutely awesome. Lastly, would someone have a chance of hurting themselves with the Beast and the apps, yes. So can I, as a professional trainer like those training tools, unfortunately, no.

We spoke to Beastmaker when we were publishing this review and they mentioned something that we really liked so we decided to include their reply to us as a comment! It's a new thing for us but it really does sum up the ethos of the boards and their makers!!

All the holds aren't meant to be easy straight away, it takes time to get profound gains like that, if you can use all the holds on a fingerboard straight away and they all feel easy then its a complete waste of money all its doing is telling you how good you are, whilst hiding the bad holds away. The world best climbers can tear the 2000 to pieces, one arming nearly all its holds, pinky monos, 45 slope one armer you name it, surely that's an inspiring thing to have above your door? Not just some wiggly bit of resin where the holds are all massive and way too grippy. But you've hammered it for being just that? Seems kind of a shame to us here, its as if the board is crap for trying to make people realize how weak they are and get them stronger in the best possible way!

  • Best hangboard slopers on the market
  • Convenient to use when you need to train at home
  • Sexy to look at and take no space
  • The only board that comes with an iPhone app to help you train
  • Chance of getting hurt if you don't know how to train for yourself
  • They're not built (especially the 2000) for everybody
  • The app doesn't rotate and scale properly when you move your phone


JP Williams said...

I love my beastmaker 2000. I boulder V8 routinely and project harder. can i use all the holds? no. that's sorta the point. but i do lots of weight-off exercises to build my strength, and do see progressive gains. this device is a training tool, and a top-of-the-line one at that. hangboarding is not for everybody. it is not an indoor wall. if a climber is looking for something that they can easily hang off of immediately, then the 1000 or another brand would better suit their needs. jw

Rufio said...

Is the 2000 better than the moon board in your eyes GUI or worse?

ntmb said...

In our opinion the Beastmaker is better because of the options it gives you; it's wood so your skin will thank you in the long run

I have all three boards and I stopped using the Moon board after we reviewed the 2k


Tim Foote said...

I'm bouldering V2/V3 rated problems right now and I'm finding that my grip strength is what is keeping me from success in those higher rated problems and sometimes even within that range. With what I'm currently working on, do you think the 1K would be too much? (Taking the app with a grain of salt of course)

Tim Foote said...

For someone climbing v2/V3's, you think the 1K would be too much? Taking the app with a grain of salt of course.

jeremy dowsett said...

Hey Tim,

it could be a little too much because at your level I'd really want to train my pinch strength and this board doesn't allow for that :(

Now if you were using this with a band to help you with strength then it's a great board... I'd look more towards something with some pinches as a starter

Tim Foote said...

Is there a wooden board that you could recommend, Jeremy? Just getting married and a PU board isn't going to be aesthetically pleasing to the Mrs. ;)

jeremy dowsett said...


I'd get the Iron Palm if it was in stock but the Blister is a good board

Unknown said...

can you tell us about the different pocket depth they have in 1000 and 2000 in mm please?

jeremy dowsett said...

the 1000 is about 50mm and 25mm (two pad and one pad) the 2000 has a one pad (25mm) a 15mm half pad and a 20mm slopey pocket.